Converting from cast iron to aluminum water pump

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67notchb

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Hi All, newby question here. I am reaching out for advise on converting from a cast iron water pump to an aluminum water pump for a 360. I know Ill need a new radiator and accessory some brackets which isnt a big deal. If I find the an aluminum timing cover and water pump will they bolt up same as the previous setup did?
 
Uh, just bolt it on.

Why change the radiator?

Sure. there's some minor dissimilar metal issues but plenty of engines are like that, even some with iron blocks and AL heads.

Not a big deal.
 
Your pulley's will be different too. One question, 360's never came with a cast iron water pump, how did your end up with one?
 
And a few more questions.....what balancer are you using and where are the timing marks on it? Still the later timing cover and timing gauge? Early cover with bolt on (or cast in) passenger side timing gauge? All brackets and pulleys will be different between the two setups. The bypass hose between the water pump and intake is a different diameter too, so, either change the intake fitting, or, make some sort of conversion connection. Fan spacer is probably going to be the wrong length too.
 
So I’m guessing you have a 69 or prior SB with a cast iron set up? That’s easy did it on my 69. You need everything from the 360. Timing cover, balancer,water pump, pulleys, Altenator brackets and bolt it all on.
 
It would help if we know what vehicle you have and what is in the car now. Is this a conversion from a 273 or 318 to a 360 in a '69 and earlier car? What is the 360 from?
 
being new to mopars and the 360 I learned it didnt come with this setup originally but with an aluminum WP and TC. I have a 67 barracuda that originally came with a 273 and somewhere along the way the 360 was put in but Im assuming to save the radiator, the TC forward was swapped, gotta love being the second or fifth owner of an old car. I was told the 360 was out of an 70 dodge truck. In converting back to an aluminum setup I wasnt sure if everything would bolt up but learning it originally had the aluminum WP and TC Im assuming it should be easy as long as I have the correct parts. I would also get a new radiator with the correct inlet/outlet for the swap back.
 
On mine I’m using the original radiator. I just had the lower water outlet on the radiator moved to the other side.
 
Best bet is if you have a junk yard-pic a part lot close. Find any 360 up to say 87 (still has the fuel pump) take all the stuff off of it. If not you’ll be chasing all the little stuff for months.
Why change, the iron pump works well, a lot of work for no gain
 
In my book, you guys are all going about this the wrong way. I am going to do the same thing one of these days. My 67 Dart 273 is a nice surviver and I don't want to disturb anything more than I have to. Damper Doctor can rebuild your 360 balancer with the early 69 and earlier timing marks. But you need an early 360 balancer with the offset wedge on the center hub and not the later balancer with the recess outer ring. Put on an early timing cover either 69 or the 68 and earlier with the sheet metal timing tab, and that is all you have to change. Or you could just put a full timing tape on the 360 balancer to the early marks. It seems a lot easier than changing everything.
 
In my book, you guys are all going about this the wrong way. I am going to do the same thing one of these days. My 67 Dart 273 is a nice surviver and I don't want to disturb anything more than I have to. Damper Doctor can rebuild your 360 balancer with the early 69 and earlier timing marks. But you need an early 360 balancer with the offset wedge on the center hub and not the later balancer with the recess outer ring. Put on an early timing cover either 69 or the 68 and earlier with the sheet metal timing tab, and that is all you have to change. Or you could just put a full timing tape on the 360 balancer to the early marks. It seems a lot easier than changing everything.
As long as you own it! If you ever sell it your going to have people scratching their heads.
 
Why would you change that set up out? It's going to add 3/4" to your pump. The aluminum pump is longer. Next thing will be that you don't have enough room for the fan clutch, etc etc. Just leave it alone, if it's not broke, don't fix it.
 
I’d like to change back over because I would like to run a Saginaw power steering pump and that setup with a drivers outlet water pump doesn’t line up correctly due to difference in pulleys but is compatable with passenger side outlet and aluminum water pump. The motor will be out soon and it would be a good time to convert.
 
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