Correct strut rod bushings? 65 Valiant

Just so you know. I think you must slide the lower control arm back to remove the strut rod. That requires removing the wire clip at the rear of the torsion bar so it can slide back too. I don't recall having to remove the upper control arm or its ball-joint, but was usually doing that also. Post 3 says you can slide a new one-piece bushing over the strut rod without removing it, but seems hard. It is hard enough forcing the 1-piece bushing into the hole without the strut rod in the way. Not only is the 2-piece a better design, I recall it is better polyurethane rubber.

While in-there, consider replacing the T-bar rubber shields. You can buy a better polyurethane type from Energy Suspension (red or black) but looks different. BTW, the T-bar greases is not for sliding but rather to avoid corrosion. The earliest cars didn't have the shields and grease and quickly rusted the T-bar anchors in the salty north.