Ditching the booster. What do I need??

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Mr. 4door

Purveyor of useless, but entertaining information.
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I have a 1976 Valiant. 225 auto with power disc/drum set up. I am building a turbo motor and would like as much room as possible. What do I need to go manual brakes?
 
Courage.

Or a better plan......

Why up the power while reducing effective braking?
 
Courage.

Or a better plan......

Why up the power while reducing effective braking?
Trying to make more room for turbo plumbing. It's not going to be an every day driver. Cruise nights and a couple nights a month at Desoto dragway.
 
going to manual brakes is easy. get a manual brake pushrod and rubber retaining clip. Dr Diff carries them if needed. quick overview: unbolt the master cylinder from the booster and remove the booster from the car. install the new brake rod in the MS and carefully move the MS against the firewall. the brake lines have plenty of give to be massaged into place without removing them. bolt everything up and cautiously make sure they work before test driving.
 
going to manual brakes is easy. get a manual brake pushrod and rubber retaining clip. Dr Diff carries them if needed. quick overview: unbolt the master cylinder from the booster and remove the booster from the car. install the new brake rod in the MS and carefully move the MS against the firewall. the brake lines have plenty of give to be massaged into place without removing them. bolt everything up and cautiously make sure they work before test driving.
Wow!!! A lot less painful than I was expecting. Appreciate the info. That and going to a manual steering box is going to make plumbing everything a lot easier!
 
True, and stopping will become more difficult, of course, but you'll get used to it.
 
True, and stopping will become more difficult, of course, but you'll get used to it.
I remember a long long time ago........ My first 3 or 4 cars didn't have power anything!!! Or as we called it, Armstrong power steering!!!
 
According to all the car part sites, the manual and power M/C are different.....but plenty of people have done the swap with the same M/C. I've done it myself.
 
My 68 GTS big block has manual brakes and steering, feel more connected to the road.
 
The M/C bore may also be optimized for a booster.

This may make pedal operation much more difficult as it is built to have the assist.
 
You're going to want a master cylinder wtih a smaller bore. If you use the large bore master from the power braket setup, your pedal will be pretty stiff. The smaller bore is perfect for this. Dr. Diff sells a kit with a 15/16" bore. There are others that make that master cylinder too (mopar performance, wilwood, etc.) and I think it was available on production cars at some point, I just don't know the year/make/model.
 
You're going to want a master cylinder wtih a smaller bore. If you use the large bore master from the power braket setup, your pedal will be pretty stiff. The smaller bore is perfect for this. Dr. Diff sells a kit with a 15/16" bore. There are others that make that master cylinder too (mopar performance, wilwood, etc.) and I think it was available on production cars at some point, I just don't know the year/make/model.

Mopar Performance used to stock two main ones. The 7/8 and the 15/16. If you didn't like one they had the other. Course they've abandoned us now. Bastards.
 
Use the power brake master cylinder, it should be 15/16 diameter bore. The manual master cylinder should be 1 1/32 diameter bore, which is a little harder than I like.
 
True, and stopping will become more difficult, of course, but you'll get used to it.
i wouldn't say "stopping" is more difficult, the brakes are the same ones that were already there. unless someone has issues with their leg strength, you just need to push harder to apply the same force to the system. the woman who bought my 74' had some leg issues and apparently had no problems stopping it considering she drove it all the way to northern california. i've done this 3 times on my own cars without changing the MC and would never go back to a power booster. drive it first and see how you like it. this is completely a personal opinion on how someone likes the brake peddle to feel.
 
You're going to want a master cylinder wtih a smaller bore. If you use the large bore master from the power braket setup, your pedal will be pretty stiff. The smaller bore is perfect for this. Dr. Diff sells a kit with a 15/16" bore. There are others that make that master cylinder too (mopar performance, wilwood, etc.) and I think it was available on production cars at some point, I just don't know the year/make/model.
I have the 1 1/32 mc from Dr. Diff. Pedal is pretty firm and I like it that way. Stops well!
 
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