400/450 stroker....Cheap parts, lotta work.
Here are some photos of the various parts we are using to machine the quench pads.
1" square aluminum bar that we cut an 1/8" deep flat area 9" long to just slip down over table.......
Then we cut to small areas on the other side that the ends of the piston skirts would be set on......
We used a 3/4" diameter cold rolled round bar that just slipped into one of the used stock pins and machined two flats, one on each end to clamp to.
The dial indicator looks as if it is riding on the quench pad in the photo but it is really on the piston deck behind the pad. We had to tighten and loosen the clamping nuts until the dial indicator would slide across the piston top parallel to the pin and not leave zero. Care must be taken so the clamping force isn't so much it distorts the piston skirt. I found that no adjustment was necessary to level the piston perpendicular to the pin.
Here are some photos of the various parts we are using to machine the quench pads.
1" square aluminum bar that we cut an 1/8" deep flat area 9" long to just slip down over table.......
Then we cut to small areas on the other side that the ends of the piston skirts would be set on......
We used a 3/4" diameter cold rolled round bar that just slipped into one of the used stock pins and machined two flats, one on each end to clamp to.
The dial indicator looks as if it is riding on the quench pad in the photo but it is really on the piston deck behind the pad. We had to tighten and loosen the clamping nuts until the dial indicator would slide across the piston top parallel to the pin and not leave zero. Care must be taken so the clamping force isn't so much it distorts the piston skirt. I found that no adjustment was necessary to level the piston perpendicular to the pin.