CURING POR 15

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I used it on my kframe for our 69. Put it on outside in summer. Goes a long ways. Havent put the kframe in yet. So no review on durability but it's been kicked around the shop a few times, no chips or peeling. Fingers crossed.
 
I have never had an issue with POR 15....the name means Paint Over Rust not fresh bare metal.
 
I say forget that high priced chit use Epoxy primer, and Rustoleum for under neat and floors. Work better and cheaper.

Still laughing at ad Eastwood sent me PM to tell me of their metal cleaner, a phosphoric solution, I guess it is their "version" or labeled from Ospho. Price was $43 a gal, Osho is $22 a gal! hahahahahahahha
 
I used it on a floorboard and was not happy with the results as it peeled.

Used it to paint my motor and have been more than happy with it. I followed their prep to the letter and used their metal prep spray and it's worked way better than any spray bomb I've used on engines.
 
Only thing I ever had the stuff peel on was clean metal. I do almost every rear end, spindles and caliper with it. It definitely doesn’t like clean metal though.
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Used it on my floor, rear end, subframe connectors and some suspension pieces. Was usually hard to the touch within 24 hours. No peeling so far after 5-6 years. That said, I do not apply on clean, bare metal. Knocked surface rust down with wire brushes, blew off the dust and applied a thin coat. Good stuff when used on the right application.
 
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all paint will peel when coated to smooth metal, the surface of the metal needs to be roughed up with scotch bright or sand paper for the paint to have something to hold and stick to.

my experience with por 15 has been that it did not stop the rust.
 
all paint will peel when coated to smooth metal, the surface of the metal needs to be roughed up with scotch bright or sand paper for the paint to have something to hold and stick to.

my experience with por 15 has been that it did not stop the rust.
I agree. All primers need tooth on bare steel. Paint manufacturers recommend #80 under epoxies and other DTM (direct to metal) products and the bare metal needs to be coated within 8 hours or microscopic rust will be too much after that. Low humidity conditions will widen the 8 hour window. POR15 encapsulates, it does not "treat" the rust like conversion products. 2 totally different products.

Por15 is tough stuff. It's catalyst is moisture. 40% - 70% is best. If you do not encapsulate all of the rust, the rust will continue and start to creep under the coating. Rust "converters" like Rust Mort and Ospho use the rust to turn into another product that becomes a hard black primer that needs to be neutralized and sanded before topcoating. I could cut and paste a bunch of technical terms and links but I'm trying to put this in a nutshell. I hope this helps.

Like most subjects, there is a ton of info out there about all of this. The OPs problem is not enough humidity (catalyst). Humidifiers have been suggested but I do not know if that will help or not. Too much humidity is a problem too and just like other product the mixing ratio has to be correct. Its just harder to control when its the humidity instead of a mixing ratio in a cup. Too much or not enough catalyst in an epoxy primer can cause drying problems also.
 
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People love to spend $$$$ on their ( baby) car, when they have enough to spend.
I bet IF a lot of high end paint/resto shops were quizzed about their methods, I bet the vast majority would say they do not use POR 15. High priced stuff and other methods work as well or better and cheaper. Sure the shop that charges $80-100 per hour can afford to use whatever. Bet they don't/
I really don't care. I use what has worked for me for decades. I used POR 15 once, maybe 25-30 years ago.
But like Divenut says, you must be careful treating metal with any Phosphoric acid or any acid as some epoxy primers can react and not that day either! Be warned.
 
Ive used alot of POR 15. Only peeled once. a battery tray that somehow got some oil dripped on it between blasting and painting. I wiped it down with Brake cleaner, thought I had all residue off, nope. it peeled right off like a band aid directly where the residue had been. I re blasted and reapplied that POR, I had one HE11 of a time blasting anywhere the oil drip hadn't been
I have the K frame and whole suspension of my Volare done with it, several years and still like it was right after I put it on (well like it was after it dried) I don't have the car done yet, teh K frame is exposed to alot of moisture, it's in the entrance to my crawlspace and has been for at least 5 years. I'd use it again..... the rest of teh front suspension and other parts I coated are in the attic.... I've used it on the bottoms of mower decks, the stuff flat out WORKS!
 
I'm not an expert on por15 or painting even. If I could figure out why it didn't work for me and I could make it work I would use it. If it works for you, thats great.

But what I believe most of us are interested in is a classic Mopar that has NO rust and is painted and coated with whatever properly that it never does rust. Being unibody cars, even if the car has some rust its structural integrity is compromised to some point depending on how much rust it has.
 
Everything I coated with it was freshly sandblasted metal.
 
But what I believe most of us are interested in is a classic Mopar that has NO rust and is painted and coated with whatever properly that it never does rust. Being unibody cars, even if the car has some rust its structural integrity is compromised to some point depending on how much rust it has.
I hear you.....Unfortunately, I have to deal with realism........Building what I've got.
 
All I know is, I've read about and seen more failures than successes with POR15. Due to operator error? I don't think all of them were. It costs too much not to work any better, IMO.
 
I just noticed as ad this AM POR 15, it was ilke $43 a PINT!!!! Might have been in Summit ad maybe? IT is darn expensive andalways as been.
SPI epoxy primer comes in at $206 for 2 gal mixed. I will put that up against anything, topcoated with any good acrylic urethane or even cheap *** RustOleum that is now up to what about $35 a gal? Maybe POR!15 is great where brake fluid hits it!?
I have no hound in the race, just know works for me, and not talking one car either.
 
I've had great luck with POR-15 and Chassis Saver. Like anything coating preparation, preparation, preparation. I use it on frames I can't get it off without a lot of work.
I live in the dry desert and it cures over night here. I have some vehicles that I used it on years ago and after several winters of driving it is still on tight. I think it is great when used correctly. It doesn't like sunlight though.
 
I had a old swap cooler that had a rusted up floor. Cleaned it up a bit and coated it with POR-15 thinking that I could get another year or two out of it. Well after 11 years of holding water the stuff was still on tight. No leaks, no peeling, no rust or anything. 11 years of being under water!
 
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