Yea, when I swapped my truck over to disc, I only was able to drive it for a day, but I didn’t change the master cylinder OR the prop valve. It seemed to stop just fine. The brakes worked excellent.
so what I’m doing right now, is I had the brake booster rebuilt locally since you can’t buy them new or refurbished anywhere. And I had the same shop switch the iron master cylinder out for the later aluminum MC the later year trucks came with. I think the stud size is different so the shop switched to 5/16 studs instead of 3/8 the cast iron master uses. Some years had 2 bolt M/C some had the older 4 bolt, mine was 2 bolt so it swapped over easily.
im going to change to the disc/drum combination valve that came off the ‘89 that had the donor axles I used.
here’s the master cylinder, if you try to directly bolt the aluminum one on, stud size is wrong and it won’t fit.
And you can see the factory metering valve bolted on there, I will bolt the disc/drum combo valve in its place. I’m not sure to use the factory style or the aftermarket brass one I have laying on the spring.
View attachment 1715703337 View attachment 1715703339
