50$ paint job..

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j par

j par

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I'd rather this not go to body and trim but just be an open discussion...
I spent hours reading about this last night. Fascinating to say the least...
I was wondering if anybody's done this recently? Of course pictures are worth 1,000 words when it comes to something like this..
For those that don't know what I'm talking about it's using Rust-Oleum paint and mineral spirits to thin it out. Using a high density foam roller and brush to paint and thousand grit sanding in between every other coat to produce what some considered a very excellent paint.. metallic colors off the table...
 
Flood Penetrol will lay the paint smooth when mixed with a can of paint, and a little mineral spirits. You can use roller or brush.
 
I did it around 2007

not worth it

harbor freight purple gun and cheap automotive paint will always be better.
 
Single stage and an in expensive gun .

No offense to those that spent 10,000 hours and dollars painting their cars but personally I think too many are overdone with perfect body panels and paint jobs . Even the concept cars didnt have that good of paint back in the 60s.
 
j par said:
From what I'm reading you get out of it what you put into it..
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It can work. Painting like that is just applying a thick coat in multiple layers and polishing the surface afterward.

Not very different than back in the day when folks used to say “It has more than a dozen coats of lacquer, polished to perfection.”
 
Ddaddy said:
It can work. Painting like that is just applying a thick coat in multiple layers and polishing the surface afterward.

Not very different than back in the day when folks used to say “It has more than a dozen coats of lacquer, polished to perfection.”
Click to expand...
I think I read the first 14 pages of about 85 LOL on a 2006 thread on allpar forum and it was pretty interesting to say the least
 
j par said:
I think I read the first 14 pages of about 85 LOL on a 2006 thread on allpar forum and it was pretty interesting to say the least
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I used to do lacquer paint jobs like that back in the day. Shoot dozens of layers with just enough dry-time to get them to bond to each other, then polish and correct the paint when done.

It works.
 
You can do the same with lacquer base/clear. It just means getting the base even and then apply the same concept to the clear. Multiple layers thick enough to polish in the end. You can produce a depth of paint that feels like you can reach into it.

It used to be called “Candy Coating”....especially when a color matching tint was added to the clear coat.
 
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did the rolled on rust-oleum deal on a dirt track body. prep was chit and only did 2 coats any didnt sand ether coat! held up good for bout 5 years, by 8 years was faded and peeling!
 
I rolled my 66 Dart came out decent, you gotta thin the paint out to pretty much water thin and do thin coats use a good foam roller.

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Don't do it, you will be forever polishing the paint, Rustolem is not UV compliant, and fades quick.
You can buy single stage automotive paint from Summit cheap.

I wished I had never sprayed my old truck with Rustolem type paint, it was a pain to keep any shine on it.
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This was sprayed with summit single stage paint, way nicer, and easier to maintain.
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Or even better yet, this was shot with Summits base/clear.
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I say go for it! What have you got to lose? Just like this slant six solid roller engine I am fixin to build. There'll be plenty of people who'll say it won't work, but that's not gonna stop me from trying it.
 
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Is Rustoleum an oil based paint ? If so, wouldn't it be hard to sand it off or seal if another paint job was needed.
I used the Rustoleum spray can paint on interior and under carriage parts and it works well.
But it did plug up the sandpaper when I fixed a few runs.
Rustoleum is good stuff but I don't know about using it as a topcoat on the body.
If you're rolling it on and sanding a single stage urethane may be a better bet.
 
Traditional Rust-Oleum is a basic oil-based acrylic paint, although modern water based versions are available.

They also make an oil-based acrylic clear coat that can be applied as a top coat.

Acrylic paints were the next generation after lacquers.

Paint of all types are just pigments captured within a matrix that can be applied and layered. Final shine depends on polish...and durability of shine depends on the harness and weatherability of the matrix.

I started my career at DuPont in the Paints and Pigments division. You can paint anything with amazing results with the right prep to bond it, and enough layers to polish and create the finish you want.

It just isn’t that hard to do.
 
I did it to my dart in 2003. It looked nice and shiny for about 2 years then got dull. Started to show thru to the primer in 5-10. Now 18 years later looks like it does now.
Oh and I should add that was gloss black tractor emplament enamel.
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j par said:
I'd rather this not go to body and trim but just be an open discussion...
I spent hours reading about this last night. Fascinating to say the least...
I was wondering if anybody's done this recently? Of course pictures are worth 1,000 words when it comes to something like this..
For those that don't know what I'm talking about it's using Rust-Oleum paint and mineral spirits to thin it out. Using a high density foam roller and brush to paint and thousand grit sanding in between every other coat to produce what some considered a very excellent paint.. metallic colors off the table...
Click to expand...
Back when I used to paint planes, we used to weinie roll out paint on tops of the wings.
I can't remember the reason why.
I always roll 2k primer on shallow low spots from sanding, usually takes a coat or 2 but works great for block sanding. I have sprayed rustoleum on somethings I mix in mineral spirits & China dryer works amazing.
1 thing about oils or car stuff the rollers won't last long, minutes if it's warm out
 
fishmens67 said:
Is Rustoleum an oil based paint ? If so, wouldn't it be hard to sand it off or seal if another paint job was needed.
I used the Rustoleum spray can paint on interior and under carriage parts and it works well.
But it did plug up the sandpaper when I fixed a few runs.
Rustoleum is good stuff but I don't know about using it as a topcoat on the body.
If you're rolling it on and sanding a single stage urethane may be a better bet.
Click to expand...
Once oil based is fully cured especially on metal sands off fairly easy. I wouldn't use it as a top coat either.
 
Ddaddy said:
Traditional Rust-Oleum is a basic oil-based acrylic paint, although modern water based versions are available.

They also make an oil-based acrylic clear coat that can be applied as a top coat.

Acrylic paints were the next generation after lacquers.

Paint of all types are just pigments captured within a matrix that can be applied and layered. Final shine depends on polish...and durability of shine depends on the harness and weatherability of the matrix.

I started my career at DuPont in the Paints and Pigments division. You can paint anything with amazing results with the right prep to bond it, and enough layers to polish and create the finish you want.

It just isn’t that hard to do.
Click to expand...
Except for silicone, lol
 
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