Best E58 360HP Camshaft....your guesses
Jesus A/J you killed me right there....i was thinking to go with a stock replacement 429/444 cam ( 340 c.i ) for this 360 , its a 79 not 89 , comes from a little red express , planning to have a nice cruiser and reliable car , of course i want a bit of power...but what can be the best if i dont want to open the engine , 3.23 / 3.55 / 3.91s with big 295,50r15 ? I dont want a dog , my fantasy is to beat a stock 1971 cuda 340 4 speed , the best that hot rod mag ran was 14.18 e.t. , i want to enter the 13.99s with my car and be reliable as hell !!! AND ON A LOW LOW DOLLAR BUDGET !!!!! AHAHAHAHA
At WOT and after about 3500 rpm,
8/1 compression is not that big a deal.
At PT (Part Throttle),8/1 compression is also not that big a deal.
In both cases, unless the the engine is forced to stay at low rpm by gearing. And is horribly aggravated by poundage. And even worse by a lo-stall TC.
With 2.76s, 27" tires, and a 2.66 low gear in the ManualTrans ;
2000rpm is 22mph,
3000 is 33mph,
4000 is 44mph,
5000 is 55mph,
5600 is 61mph
if you trap at 90mph, that will be 4330rpm in Third gear, (5940 in Second gear).
90mph is a P/W of 17.3 w/ a manual trans so if your car weighs
3400, then 3400/17.3= 196hp. If your car weighs
3700 pounds then 214hp;if
3900 then 225hp
If you trap at 95mph, you will have to be in third gear, so 95=4570.
So you are geared, and stalled all wrong at both ends, making you probably at least a second slower than it could be.
To go 14.4 with street suspension requires a P/W of about .074, so at 3700 pounds that is 275 hp crank, but assumes you are geared correctly, which would be somewhere around top of third gear so say 5300@95=3.23s. to trap 95 in 4th @95, will take 4.48s, round to 4.30s
There is your required gearing to 95 at 3700 pounds with 275 hp. at about 14.4 with street suspension.
now you just gotta figure out how to get your lo-compression 360 up to 275 crank, AND, off the line.
But your dream is 13.99.
With street suspension, that will take a P/W of about .085 with a manual trans, and the trap speed will be around 101 mph.
At .085P/W and 3700 pounds, then 3700 x.085= 315hp
That 315 hp is gonna take some rpm with lo-compression so lets say the power peak is 5400, and we'll shift at 5600. So then 5600 in 4th gear with 27s is 4.45s, rounds to 4.30s. Your starter gear is then; 4.3 x2.66=11.44 that half decent.
Ok so how do you make 315 hp with lo-compression? Well firstly the cam is gonna need to be , Ima thinking, something like the 292/292/108 Mopar, which is about
[email protected] IIRC. Then all the usuals like headers and a free-flowing exhaust, etc.
Ok so lets add this up;
Your costs are;
4.30 gears, big cam kit, a valve job, and supportworks.
I won't include intake and carb, Ho fuelpump, hi-energy ignition, HP cooling system; cuz you are gonna require those no matter what you do. So the buy-in to go 13.99 is reasonable.
Now here is the badnews
With a Static C/R of 8.0, and the Ica of 75* for that big Purple cam,
Your DYNAMIC C/R is down in the dungeon at 5.9:1, and estimated cylinder pressure of 105psi. Your sub 3200rpm performance, on the street is estimated to be very similar to a stock 225 slanty. At 3700 pounds, even with 4.30s, that is gonna be a bigfat disappointment to you.
To get the missing bottom end back, your pressure needs to be increased to 155psi at the least, 160 is better.
155 will take an Scr of 10.7; and 160 will take 11/1.
So, in the beginning, I said
At WOT and after about 3500 rpm,
8/1 compression is not that big a deal.
At PT (Part Throttle),8/1 compression is also not that big a deal.
And that is still true. Your 8/1 Scr is only killing about 5% to 7% power or say 18hp with that 292 cam.
And at PT, no big deal to be at 5.9 Dcr, you just drive a lil deeper into the primaries.
But
At low rpm, not at WOT, and not at PT on the primaries, 105psi is a HUGE deal! It will be sucked-out,doggie as heck and drink gas at an alarming rate.
IMO it would be a huge mistake to run a 292 in that combo, on the street. That's messed up.
Now 18 hp is a lil more than one cam size in this combo. So if you bumped the pressure up to where it needs to be, you could easily run probably a size and a half less cam and probably a size and a half less rear gear.
If you switched to a solid lifter cam, you could drop another size on the advertised and make another 5 to 7 psi, without any loss of top-end power. So now we're down to about a
[email protected] Solid lifter cam, which is a street-strip combo. With a lil headwork, at 3700 pounds, 13.99 might be doable with a 230SFT cam, and with 3.91s now, she is becoming more streetable by the hour. Still not really a DD, but almost. Every 100 pounds, now, is worth ~10 hp. So if you can't get to 13.99 at 3700, just drop some poundage.
So what are we up to?
Hi-compression pistons, decking, gears, a SFT cam kit, adjustable valve gear, a lil headwork , and the usuals.
BTW;
From 105 to 135psi is a night and day difference in the driving experience. From 135 to 155/160, is another huge jump.
I'll tell ya; at 155/160psi, you will never be disappointed in the day to day experience.
As for me; in a streeter;
I would chose the 160psi, over a 4bbl@105psi every time.
With 2.76s I would even sacrifice headers.
It may not be quick in the quarter, but it will be a blast around town. I mean;
2000rpm is 22mph, 3000 is 33mph, 4000 is 44mph,All in First gear.
That's my opinion, and it's the best I got.
BTW
many decades ago,back in the 70s; I put an entire 1969 318 top end and cam, into/onto a 340, in a 65 V100 Wagon. And had a blast around town for two years. Pressure it had, in spades. But back then, we also had "real" gas.