Future setup :
Rebuild front end - Yes, or since good parts these days are harder to get, replace joints and bushings as needed. The shop manual chapter on front end is really good.
Full poly kit all around - Unneccessary for your goal and not worth the drawbacks in this case. (and yes I use some poly and nylon bushings on my car, that doesn't mean you should)
Adjustable strut rods - Not needed at all.
Off set caster bushing - Can be helpful in getting a little more positive caster. Worth doing when changing the UCA bushings.
Sway bar kit( front and rear or just front?) - Front. For the end links, if they are strong enough use polyurethane. For the bushings, use poly if you are willing to deal with the maintanence. Zerk fittings to add grease are a big help. The polygraphite (TM) are an option too. My impression was the claimed self lubrication does work - at least somewhat.
Choose a sway bar with the car's weight and springs in mind. Also the tires and road surfaces it will be operating on.
You might start with a stock sway bar. Later if going to larger torsion bars, you may then want to try a larger diameter sway bar. If the road surfaces are generally poor, loose, or wet, then softer springing will develope the most traction. Softer and stiffer being very relative here. I'd suggest stock v-8 t-bars and front sway bar as the softest setup regardless of surface and tires.
Borgeson power steering kit - Very much a personal preference. I'd suggest going with Bergman if you do this since he's worked out the bugs.
New leaf springs - Yes for your goals. Already discussed.
10" rear drums if possible - Yes its possible. Requires a change in backing plates and you'll have to transfer the parking brake cables.
