Lowering leaf springs

If I go with poly setup I need to keep them lubricated?
Yes. And even then they may squeak. Under high loading they provide less compliance amd therefore hold the control arm geometry slightly better. If you were planning to autocross, or maybe even if you were planning to do a non-timed road course experience using sticky tires (near race tire level of sticky) then it can be worth it. On the street, not really.
The sway bar end links are not rotating. Its one place where polyurethane bushings should give a more immediate and noticable response. However I learned the hard way that the additional load can cause weaker washers and even the end links to break.
The bushings where the sway bar mounts to the K-frame is another place that polyurathane might be worth the reduction in compliance, even in street use. But because the bar needs to rotate, lubrication is needed.

But stock rubber should work fine for me?
I think so. Heck there is a guy on moparts whose brother brought his stock road runner to a road course event and had a great time.

Any brands recommended for ball joints ,tie rods and shocks?
My knowledge on good manufactureres or lines of joints and rod ends is probably out of date. I know well made seems to be more difficult to buy with certainty. Its the main reason I suggested doing a check of each joint and rod end. You can also check for movement in the idler and pitman arm connections.
Then replace what is needed.

Shocks.
I don't know the best bang for the buck for decent parts store shocks. I think this was discussed recently but I didn't pay close attention.

For the more reasonably priced hi performance shocks, probably can't go wrong with Bilstiens. But there are a number of choices these days without having to go to adjustable/custom Koni reds or something semi-exotic like that. (I'm using SPAX shocks for Australian Valiants but thats a special import effort to get them)

Why no adjustable strut rods?
Because they're not supposed to be adjustable. It creates the final leg of the triangle fixing the lower control arm position. All the caster and camber adustment is done in the upper control arm.

The main reason Firm Feel came up with them was to let builders compensate as needed. A big reason for compensation was 'one size fits most' polyurethane strut bushings. These were particulaly a problem when the car also had polyurethane lower control arm bushings. Here's anotehr way to fix the issue Making A-Body Strut rod Bushings Work

Torque bars 1" or under?
That's probably a good match for everyday use on crumby roads. I'd say the largest factory torsion bar is probably good with a factory sway bar. There use to be some aftermarket bars in the .9xx" diameter range.
There certainly some aftermarket bars new and used in the 1.03 and 1.04" diameter sizes. With those I'd think a larger aftermarket sway bar would be a better match.