340 crankshaft value

dano said
I run a cast 340 crank, they are lighter than forged, shot peen hardened and are not the same as a 318 crank at all. I didn't use it for that reason, it came with my 72 340. Unless your boosting or using NO2 it will last as long as the block will. Just get it neutral balanced, it doesn't take much weight to get it there then you can use the 71-dwon dampers and flywheels and avoid the odd "cast crank only" balancer. Lots of 318 and 360 guys making good power on a cast crank. But its all in the intended use.

I'd be more concerned with the block and getting it sonic checked before I worried about a good cast crank. If your running a 4 speed you can use a Ram/Dakota pilot needle bearing that goes into the torque converter snout resister and shorten the trans input shaft with a zip wheel. Save the $350 and buy some Scat I beams.

Yea I am aware of the needle bearing style bushing but with crank out and if I decide to use it then it will be drilled but after looking closer it may already be ready for a pilot bushing which surprised me , and just me but I would never cut the input shaft off the 4spd , I know it can be done but me being me I just wouldn't do it if I could avoid it and the block is heading to machine shop Monday to be checked out this week as its top of the list but I feel good about the block but yeah its got to be sonic checked , and I will check on the Scat I beams as I have not tried them before

RustyRatRod said
I never said cast was better.

Sorry didn't mean to imply that you did , could have worded that better , I like forged better but as far as needed perhaps not but sometimes I go OCD on things and do it whether it needs it or not lol