340 crankshaft value

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72dustervs

72dustervs

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This seller says this is a 1968 69 70 71 72 Dodge Plymouth Nice Original Mopar 340 Forged Steel Crankshaft ,,I am looking at buying this , I just acquired a 73 340 engine and want a forged steel crank , says its been polished an ready a few years back but never installed , .010 mains .030 rods
Price is $350 ,, any opinions about condition an price compared to buying new ? Should I pass and buy a new one ?
I have torn down the 340 and getting ready to send to machine shop

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If the power output on your build is under 500, save your money and use your cast crank.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If the power output on your build is under 500, save your money and use your cast crank.
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Yea maybe but would need the cast crank drilled for pilot bushing and have checked out ,, I know its a toss up on forged over cast between who you ask on which is better
 
72dustervs said:
Yea maybe but would need the cast crank drilled for pilot bushing and have checked out ,, I know its a toss up on forged over cast between who you ask on which is better
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I never said cast was better.
 
72dustervs said:
Yea maybe but would need the cast crank drilled for pilot bushing and have checked out ,, I know its a toss up on forged over cast between who you ask on which is better
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I run a cast 340 crank, they are lighter than forged, shot peen hardened and are not the same as a 318 crank at all. I didn't use it for that reason, it came with my 72 340. Unless your boosting or using NO2 it will last as long as the block will. Just get it neutral balanced, it doesn't take much weight to get it there then you can use the 71-dwon dampers and flywheels and avoid the odd "cast crank only" balancer. Lots of 318 and 360 guys making good power on a cast crank. But its all in the intended use.

I'd be more concerned with the block and getting it sonic checked before I worried about a good cast crank. If your running a 4 speed you can use a Ram/Dakota pilot needle bearing that goes into the torque converter snout resister and shorten the trans input shaft with a zip wheel. Save the $350 and buy some Scat I beams.
 
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Personally, I'd buy a new billet crank before I'd spend $350 on that one. The question still remains though as to whether you need either. What kind of horsepower are you shooting for?
 
dano said:
I run a cast 340 crank, they are lighter than forged, shot peen hardened and are not the same as a 318 crank at all. I didn't use it for that reason, it came with my 72 340. Unless your boosting or using NO2 it will last as long as the block will. Just get it neutral balanced, it doesn't take much weight to get it there then you can use the 71-dwon dampers and flywheels and avoid the odd "cast crank only" balancer. Lots of 318 and 360 guys making good power on a cast crank. But its all in the intended use.

I'd be more concerned with the block and getting it sonic checked before I worried about a good cast crank. If your running a 4 speed you can use a Ram/Dakota pilot needle bearing that goes into the torque converter snout resister and shorten the trans input shaft with a zip wheel. Save the $350 and buy some Scat I beams.
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Yea I am aware of the needle bearing style bushing but with crank out and if I decide to use it then it will be drilled but after looking closer it may already be ready for a pilot bushing which surprised me , and just me but I would never cut the input shaft off the 4spd , I know it can be done but me being me I just wouldn't do it if I could avoid it and the block is heading to machine shop Monday to be checked out this week as its top of the list but I feel good about the block but yeah its got to be sonic checked , and I will check on the Scat I beams as I have not tried them before
RustyRatRod said:
I never said cast was better.
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Sorry didn't mean to imply that you did , could have worded that better , I like forged better but as far as needed perhaps not but sometimes I go OCD on things and do it whether it needs it or not lol

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cudamark said:
Personally, I'd buy a new billet crank before I'd spend $350 on that one. The question still remains though as to whether you need either. What kind of horsepower are you shooting for?
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HP haven't decided yet , I don't plan on racing but do want it to be strong , will come down to the money in the end
 
Then go forged if that's what you want. Just lettin you know the cast iron cranks are far from inadequate.
 
The cast 340 cranks are plenty strong. They are better than your average cast crank to begin with. Never had a problem with one.
 
rumblefish360 said:
How so?
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Chrysler didn't just use "cast iron". They used nodular cast iron which is stronger. Much the same as a lot of the cranks Ford used. 351C, most all of the FE engines, the 351M and 400. They are pretty stout. Even the slant six cast cranks are nodular.

Here is a really nice article about the difference in regular "grey iron" and "nodular iron".

Grey Iron vs Nodular Iron
 
Pfst! Let’s keep the comparo in house, da MoPar house, screw the other guys. How is this better than a 318 or 360 cast crank? That’s the way I read it.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Pfst! Let’s keep the comparo in house, da MoPar house, screw the other guys. How is this better than a 318 or 360 cast crank? That’s the way I read it.
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How is "what" better? The article answered that. Regardless of make.
 
So a 340 cast crank is better than any other Chrysler cast crank... oooooo kayyyy

I was just asking. Not looking for an article on it.
 
rumblefish360 said:
So a 340 cast crank is better than any other Chrysler cast crank... oooooo kayyyy

I was just asking. Not looking for an article on it.
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No. the CHRYSLER cast cranks are better than some other makes.
 
That is not in dispute.
Again, I read it as a cast 340 crank is better than a 318 or 360 cast crank.
MoparMike1974 said:
They are better than your average cast crank to begin with.
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IDGAF about any other brand.
If the above is true, how so?

AKA - Educate me.
 
A friend of mine is a class racer and runs only cast cranks for weight savings. He has never broken a crank.
He regularly spins his sb to 7500.
Agree that if your running at 500 hp or More/ nitrous/ blown get a forged crank
 
72dustervs said:
.................... I like forged better but as far as needed perhaps not but sometimes I go OCD on things and do it whether it needs it or not lol

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I would say that if you have a tendency to go OCD, you really don't need us to tell you what to do.....let your OCD guide you to do what you need to do to feel good about what you want as our suggestions may not align with your OCD requirements....

My opinion..........drill the cast crank, bush it and go.....it will cost less than the forged crank

Another opinion.......why did the rod journals get cut .020 more than the mains??? I know, I know, that it does not matter, mains and rod journals do not have to be cut the same amount, they just have to be cut the amount to clean up the the imperfections........my guess is that the crank suffered a spun rod bearing.........again my opinion
 
it also depends what machining costs there are for the cast crank, if it's close to or above the $350 for the 'fresh' forged one it's a no brainer. plus you could always sell the cast crank to recoup some of your outlay.
neil.
 
PBR and others run in the 9 second range with stock 360 cranks . and lots of dirt track guys use them also .
 
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