Throttle valve adjustment

What I mean is this;
If the ratio is right, then you can set the cable per the FSM, and then the shifting will vary properly as to timing and intensity.
But if the ratio is wrong, you may be able to set it such that it is right at a particular load and rpm, but the further off-center you go, the timing and/or intensity becomes worse; and you end up chasing the adjustment around and around and around; see post #5.
And if the governor is wrong, you'll never get it to "work properly".

Every trans I have worked on has three principle pressures that have to be balanced, to either work together at times or to work against eachother at other times. Throttle pressure is just one of those. Additionally there is line pressure and governor pressure. There are others as well.
Line pressure is the primary pressure. It protects the vitals at modest throttle settings, and sets the tone for the shifts.
Governor pressure comes along and tries to command a shift in direct relation to the speed of the vehicle.
But throttle pressure delays the shift, by command of your right foot, and simultaneously affects the intensity of the shift, a by-product of increasing pressure to the clutches.
If you find that your right foot is in an awkward position at the time of an upshift, it is probably because the governor is out of sync. When you get it right, you will be able to command Part-Throttle shifts with your gas pedal, and she will be a joy to drive.
If you find that the shifts are not timed well between eachother, that is a pressure issue at the valve. For instance, if at a particular Part Throttle setting, the 2-3 shift seems to be too early or too late, as compared to what the 1-2 was, at about the same setting, then the cure for that is in the individual springing of the shift-command valves. I find that to be horribly annoying.
In the TorqueFlites, it seems to me that the 2-3 is often too early, and with the wrong governor, the trans will sometimes go from first, almost straight to third, unless I increase the throttle opening right after the 1-2 shift. That is nuts, and I can't take it, so off comes the VB.
After those are synced, I fix the governor, so the throttle pressure works the way I want it to at PT.
I don't care much about WOT shifts because that, to me, is what the manual shifter is for. And in my car, it spends maybe 90/95% of it's life at PT, NOT WOT, so I concentrate on making it fun to drive.
So, to recap; you have TWO or even THREE ratios;
1) the sync between the roadspeed and governor pressure, which is governed by the rear gear ratio and tire size, and
2) the sync between the Throttle Pressure and all others, which is governed by the distance the cable moves, which is governed by the distance between it's anchor and the center of the throttleshaft, and cable-slack. and
3) the sync between the shifts, governed by the individual shift-springs.