Starter issues again!

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dartfreak75

dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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I had trouble with my old starter just clicking when I turned the key. I replaced it with a new magnum mini starter back in feb and its worked fine until today. I go out everyday and start the dart let it run just to keep everything moving and all that. It started and ran perfectly yesterday and today it just clicked just like before. I checked all the connections checked voltage everything is good. Tried crossing it over at the relay nothing happened, tried crossing it over at the starter it just sparks doesn't do nothing. Did my new starter go bad already?
 
Probably. Anything you get from a parts store now is a piece of ****.
 
First thing I'd suspect is battery and connections. A quick check is to try and jumper starter while the lights are on.
 
67Dart273 said:
First thing I'd suspect is battery and connections. A quick check is to try and jumper starter while the lights are on.
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I thought the battery connection may be bad to i took them off and cleaned them. It may just be a bad battery cable.
 
I had similar issues and it was at the starter relay. Cleaned up the connections and it cleared up. Just a thought?
 
dartfreak75 said:
I had trouble with my old starter just clicking when I turned the key. I replaced it with a new magnum mini starter back in feb and its worked fine until today. I go out everyday and start the dart let it run just to keep everything moving and all that. It started and ran perfectly yesterday and today it just clicked just like before. I checked all the connections checked voltage everything is good. Tried crossing it over at the relay nothing happened, tried crossing it over at the starter it just sparks doesn't do nothing. Did my new starter go bad already?
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Best part of all of this is you “ go out and start it everyday”. Man that has got to feel good!!
 
Maybe your Alternator is not charging the battery back up if you are starting it every day.

Take a multi-meter and check the voltage on the batt. Should be 13 volts if good.
 
Just a thought.

Before spending any more cash put a battery charger on it for a day or so.

It could be that you are removing more charge from the battery then you are putting back into it as it is ideling every day

Over the course of a few weeks / days it starts, starts, starts, doesn't start.
 
Dana67Dart said:
Just a thought.

Before spending any more cash put a battery charger on it for a day or so.

It could be that you are removing more charge from the battery then you are putting back into it as it is ideling every day

Over the course of a few weeks / days it starts, starts, starts, doesn't start.
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I’m thinking what Dana’s said. If it just ideling, the Alt is not spinning fast enough to charge the battery. With all of the draw from the daily starts, it’s draining the battery and no recharging.

As for starter, I’m using this one below, heat wrapped with TTI’s and a clutch without any issues.

PLYMOUTH Powermaster 9613 Powermaster Mastertorque Starters | Summit Racing
 
Guys this stuff is why I emphasize TESTING methods. For a problem such as this you can go a long way with a multimeter, or even a simple 12V test lamp. I much prefer an old fashioned incandescant bulb to an LED tester because you can jusde "brightness".

"Rig" you multimeter or lamp to the starter main stud. "Prop" it so you can see it, and jumper the starter. Notice the lamp/ meter. If the lamp is still somewhat bright, or the meter is at least 10V and it won't crank........it's the starter. If the lamp goes out, or the starter drops way down, it's a really bad connection, cable, or dead/ bad battery

"Sometimes" if it's only a "medium" low battery or cable, the starter will click or buzz. But if the connection/ cable/ battery is REALLY gone, it might not do anything except show you the low voltage.
 
Not the relay because you shorted the terminals on the starter which bypasses the relay. And it has worked fine since Feb.
So that does not leave many possibilities:
- cables; terminals corroded/poor connections.
- battery; failing or not charging
- the starter.
 
Go over your wiring. Clean connections, verify good quality ground with the proper size wire. Voltage is only part of the equation, the stater need amperage. If the car sits, buy a battery tender. After going through 5 battery's over the last 20+ years of the car in and out of action (more out than in) I finally bought one and it nice to just disconnect it, connect the positive to the battery and start it up.

Have you tested the ignition switch?
 
Bewy said:
Not the relay because you shorted the terminals on the starter which bypasses the relay. And it has worked fine since Feb.
So that does not leave many possibilities:
- cables; terminals corroded/poor connections.
- battery; failing or not charging
- the starter.
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All the above , but dont forget the neutral starter switch , and even the key switch can cause that problem , ask me how I know --lol.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Same difference. This is gonna be my next one.

DODGE Powermaster 3257 Powermaster OEM-Style High-Torque Replacement Starters | Summit Racing
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Owwww, damn.
I got mine off a Ram truck in the pick a part for 15 bucks 6 years ago and still going strong.:D

famous bob said:
All the above , but dont forget the neutral starter switch , and even the key switch can cause that problem , ask me how I know --lol.
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He jumpered and bypassed both of those doing testing.

I pulled into the local tractor supply awhile back and came out to a no click no crank issue.
I turned the key and watched the volt gauge.
No drop in volts.
Yep I know what that means.
Had to reach under and plug the neutral safety/backup light plug back on. :D
 
TrailBeast said:
Owwww, damn.
I got mine off a Ram truck in the pick a part for 15 bucks 6 years ago and still going strong.
Click to expand...

And that was smart. You got an actual Chrysler part and not a cheap POS parts store rebuild.
 
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