Rallye dash conversion

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bigblockbill

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Hey everybody I did a rallye dash conversion from my non Rallye dash, it's a 71 duster. I purchased an oil sender and temp gauge from rock auto. So today I was testing my cluster and when I apply 12v to my cluster my oil gauge gets pegged to max, my gas gauge shows empty with theres 10 gallons in my tank. I bench tested the gauges prior and when I ground out the gauge it moves to full on all of them. Is there a specific oil sender and gas sender I need?
 
Oil pressure sender for use with a warning light:
PS11T_Front__ra_p.jpg


Oil pressure sender for use with a gauge:
PS59T_Front__ra_p.jpg


They're not interchangeable.
You didn't say if your fuel sender is an original factory one, or an aftermarket replacement; which are notoriously inaccurate. Lots of threads on here on that subject.
 
I presume you have the voltage limiter installed which reduces voltage to the gauges to 5 or 6 volts or so.
 
Professor Fate said:
Oil pressure sender for use with a warning light:
View attachment 1715721585

Oil pressure sender for use with a gauge:
View attachment 1715721586

They're not interchangeable.
You didn't say if your fuel sender is an original factory one, or an aftermarket replacement; which are notoriously inaccurate. Lots of threads on here on that subject.
Click to expand...



Ahhhhh I order the light sender. Is there a good site to order off? I believe the sender is stock. I worked well with the non Rallye dash and as I converted it's not working.
 
bigblockbill said:
Ahhhhh I order the light sender. Is there a good site to order off? I believe the sender is stock. I worked well with the non Rallye dash and as I converted it's not working.
Click to expand...
NAPA, Advance Auto, AutoZone, RockAuto, O'Reilly Auto should all have them.
 
There are a lot of posts on here about the lack of accuracy of the reproduction fuel senders. Sounds like that could be part of your problem. There is a device called a Meter Match that can be used to fix the inaccuracies.
 
Mike69cuda said:
There are a lot of posts on here about the lack of accuracy of the reproduction fuel senders. Sounds like that could be part of your problem. There is a device called a Meter Match that can be used to fix the inaccuracies.
Click to expand...

The gauge on the non Rallye worked well prior to the switch.
 
I've never done it, but yes they can. You have to carefully open up the fuel gauge. The VR is inside it and MAY be able to be repaired. OR you buy an external vr that you can "hardwire" so to speak to the back of circuit board.
I believe RT-eng. makes them.
@moparmat2000 and @RedFish are familiar with them.
bigblockbill said:
Is there a way to fix them?
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
I've never done it, but yes they can. You have to carefully open up the fuel gauge. The VR is inside it and MAY be able to be repaired. OR you buy an external vr that you can "hardwire" so to speak to the back of circuit board.
I believe RT-eng. makes them.
@moparmat2000 and @RedFish are familiar with them.
Click to expand...

But during my bench test I grounded the guage and it showed full, wouldn't this mean the guage is okay?
 
Too much voltage for too long will fry a factory gauge. I use the RTE electronic 5V limiter. Factory A body later Rallye clusters have the limiter as part of the fuel gauge, it feeds the oil gauge if I remember correctly. I have a tach kit in my B body too. Great product, loads of info on the website.

MOPAR Products
 
OK, I can read that you do have the correct gray sender wire to the oil gauge, just wrong sender there. If you had the purple/temp and dark blue/fuel sender wires in switched locations the fuel needle wouldn't move until water gets hot. So... Does the temp gauge work correctly in the car?
Once you do get correct oil sender and hot water, then all 3 gauges read low, the limiter is faulty.
Zero ohms resistance can make make a faulty gauge do what within proper 80-10 ohms range will not.
The winding on the bimetal beam has a pale yellow spiral wound fiber glass insulation that can hardly be seen. Over the years, especially with duty of a fuel gauge that insulation gets cooked. It will restrain beam movement like a bandage on a finger. The added heat of the limiter inside this fuel gauge didn't help the life of the gauge. Take the fuel gauge out of the housing, turn it needle opening down and thump the side of the can. If specs like black pepper fall out of it, the limiter or both limiter and gauge side are toasted. I assume you will eventually open the fuel gauge to see its condition. Lets hope you only need to replace the limiter.
 
I'm not sure to be honest. I know enough just to be dangerous lol. I know the rally dash(we have 2 cudas), the IVR is inside the factory fuel gauge.
bigblockbill said:
But during my bench test I grounded the guage and it showed full, wouldn't this mean the guage is okay?
Click to expand...
 
RedFish said:
OK, I can read that you do have the correct gray sender wire to the oil gauge, just wrong sender there. If you had the purple/temp and dark blue/fuel sender wires in switched locations the fuel needle wouldn't move until water gets hot. So... Does the temp gauge work correctly in the car?
Once you do get correct oil sender and hot water, then all 3 gauges read low, the limiter is faulty.
Zero ohms resistance can make make a faulty gauge do what within proper 80-10 ohms range will not.
The winding on the bimetal beam has a pale yellow spiral wound fiber glass insulation that can hardly be seen. Over the years, especially with duty of a fuel gauge that insulation gets cooked. It will restrain beam movement like a bandage on a finger. The added heat of the limiter inside this fuel gauge didn't help the life of the gauge. Take the fuel gauge out of the housing, turn it needle opening down and thump the side of the can. If specs like black pepper fall out of it, the limiter or both limiter and gauge side are toasted. I assume you will eventually open the fuel gauge to see its condition. Lets hope you only need to replace the limiter.
Click to expand...

ive rewired the car from scratch. ive looked at diagrams for the correct pin arrangement for the cluster wiring. are the rally gas tanks a 10-80ohm? im going to get a new float, correct oil sender. the temp sender worked on the non rallye dash before im hoping it will be the correct resistance values for the rallye dash. i got this cluster from my pops buddy who had it in a box for probably 30+ years so everything is in good shape.
 
bigblockbill said:
ive rewired the car from scratch. ive looked at diagrams for the correct pin arrangement for the cluster wiring. are the rally gas tanks a 10-80ohm? im going to get a new float, correct oil sender. the temp sender worked on the non rallye dash before im hoping it will be the correct resistance values for the rallye dash. i got this cluster from my pops buddy who had it in a box for probably 30+ years so everything is in good shape.
Click to expand...
Senders are same range rally or standard. Only difference is gauge or warning lamp for oil.
 
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