Check my throttle linkage

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Also I don’t think you really need that carb spacer with that air gap manifold. I know it looks cool though. Illuminating that would prob help with alignment issues and allow the arc movement to be smoother as Dave said.
 
If I am reading this correctly, the cable does not have enough travel to pull the carb linkage all the way to WOT. Looking at the pics, there is nothing wrong with the cable/spring angles, even if they are 'non' stock. Spring is ok too, it has lots of coils, so not too strong at WOT.
Problem is probably the pivot distance from pri shaft centre to throttle cable pin on THAT carb. It needs to shorter by about 1/8".
 
I think there are a couple things. First, you don't have the pin for the throttle cable in the highest hole on the throttle lever on the carburetor. That will position the cable a little further from the throttle shaft and give it more leverage. The second thing several others have pointed out, raise the bracket to give the cable a more straight path. I think you may improve it then. I don't like them gorilla return springs either. There are generally two in case one breaks, but those are a little excessive, IMO.
 
Some off the cables here in Australia had a nylon end up at the peddle end , i found in some cases the inner cable would stick to it if it was worn, small groove in nylon.
 
Professor, The OP is looking for solutions to an issue and I'm really not familiar with that Holley, hence the questions. Too much spring load can contribute to his problem. Removing one return spring can be an indicator.

For some Holleys, part #44 is termed as such..........
upload_2021-4-10_9-34-2.png

upload_2021-4-10_9-28-22.png


FWIW, Not that it's not a good idea, or I'm bucking any race rules here. I'm not convinced Ma Mopar had a two return spring policy for many applications.
For example, if you order an "genuine official re-pop" return spring for a six pack, only one spring is sent to you ........

upload_2021-4-10_8-41-28.png


Unless you include a kickdown return assist.........

upload_2021-4-10_8-43-12.png



How they are termed as "spring" or "springs" is evident at these suppliers.........

Air/Fuel, Throttle Return Springs :Mega Parts USA

You searched for throttle return spring - Vans Auto


Back to the issue.......
OP, I recall my '77 pedal back side had worn a groove in it that contributed to peddle effort. You may want to look at that as well.
upload_2021-4-10_9-49-29.png




BTW, They didn't have back up torsion bars installed either. If you ever had one snap, would you wonder why not?
 
Cables aren't supposed to be looped. They'll drag in the sheathe. Tighter/smaller the turn, the sooner a strand or 3 break and dig into the sheathe. Even those cables without a sheathe, there are formulas to figure turns/pulley diameters. That cable looks long enough for a slant 6.
How to Choose the Right Mechanical Cable Pulleys | Sava.
 
Daves69 said:
Professor, The OP is looking for solutions to an issue and I'm really not familiar with that Holley, hence the questions. Too much spring load can contribute to his problem. Removing one return spring can be an indicator.

For some Holleys, part #44 is termed as such..........
View attachment 1715721240
View attachment 1715721237
Click to expand...

I don't know anything about the OP's particular carb, either, but a while back I put dual Holley Webers on the flathead six in my 49 Dodge. With the single OEM return spring hooked up, I could barely push the carbs open. Took a look at the carbs and discovered that each one had THREE return springs like part # 44 above. Which meant that I had a total of seven return springs. Ended up removing two of them from each carb and deleting the OEM flathead return spring to get the pedal pressure right.

As for how many return springs Mopars usually had at least through the early seventies, my 426 Hemi has two - one for each carb - but every other one I own, small blocks, big blocks and slant six, have just one. I actually had a return spring break on me once after a full throttle run through first gear. Easy to deal with, I just turned the key off. And I know the web sites all say don't do that, but especially on older cars without an ignition lock, it presents no risk to do that. And even the ones with an ignition lock can safely be turned off while moving as long as you don't panic and don't turn the key far enough to engage the ignition lock.
 
I might have misunderstood the problem because of the way the OP described the problem.

I assumed from the description in post #1 that the cable was stretched to the limit...but the carb did not reach WOT. Which was what my reply was based on. Now I am not sure he meant that.
 
Thanks for all the help thus far. I only like to use these wood carb spacers for one reason only, and that is heat. They really isolate the manifold heat from the carb, and keeps that carb cool.

I made a little spacer block out of aluminum today. It’s about an inch tall. The cable is now more on a level plane as the throttle pin. The pedal feels much smoother. I ran out of time to go for a test drive. The truck is still open headers. Lol
I’ll report back and let ya know. I hope this is it.
If this is kinda janky, let me know. Lol.

6A7D1C4E-DFB0-4A7E-8D72-97CFE50DA9B0.jpeg
A0353592-A7E5-442E-AB23-362DD7A9FBF5.jpeg
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C93EDCB4-9876-4F4E-AAFF-A05F158029AE.jpeg
 
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