Clean 12v switched source that is hot cranking and running

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OP check this out a time delay relay, made by Hella. Summit is the cheapest I've seen at a little over 40 bucks

page 57 in the Hella catalog

https://www.hella.com/hella-us/assets/media/HINC_Electrics_Catalog.pdf

HELLA 996152131 12V "delay on release"


Found this helpful article:

12v Delayed turn-off or turn-off (howto)

If that article disappears, I've taken the liberty of stealing it:

(Due to the **** software it only took me 5 tries to get the photos in correct order I finally had to upload them one at a time)

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You hook the fused battery power to "batt' just like it says.

You hook the output pin 87 to your igntion/ EFI loads just like it says

You connect 31 to ground just like it says

And you connect 15 to your 'ignition run' and jumpered to "IGN2" just like it says

You set the delay for I'd say less than 1/2 second. There are two switches to set the range and an adjustment pot to adjust the delay within that range.

When you turn the key to "run" it sets the delay and powers the load. When you switch to "start' if there is a glitch between IGN1 and IGN2 the 1/4 second or so delay will keep the relay engaged. When you shut off the key the relay will drop out 1/4 sec or so later depending on where the delay is set.

I would not set this very long. You don't want the engine to not shut off when you turn off the key, as a lot could happen in let's say 1 second.
 
DionR said:
Ok, here's how I think this works. Below is the plug end of an F-Body ignition switch (switch on the left):

View attachment 1715596969

Based on checking for connectivity, it looks like the F-Body splits the power and both the red and the pink wires would be hot.

When the switch is in the run and start position, the red wire connects to the blue wire. Best I could tell, that is the only connection with the red wire.

The pink wire connects to the black/pink wire when in the run position only, while it connects to the yellow wire in the start position only.

The black wire between the blue and the yellow connected to the pink wire, but only when in acc.

The small black wire next to the red wire didn't connect to anything that I could tell.

So, to get this switch to run in my '74 Duster, I would need to connect the following:

Duster -> F-Body Ign Switch
Red -> Red
Red -> Pink
Blue -> Blue
Yellow -> Yellow <--EDIT
Black -> Black/Pink
Black -> Black between yellow and blue

That would give me a switch that is hot on the blue IGN1 wire in both start and run positions.

The black wire between the yellow and blue wire could be ignore if one didn't care if acc worked on the switch. If it is hooked up, need to look at what runs off the black wire in your car to make sure it doesn't pull too much for the smaller wire.

Hate that the ignition and start/acc power would both be on the same wire then, but that is how the stock system is so at least it isn't worse than stock.
Click to expand...

I was just reviewing this as I am looking at swapping my ignition switch, I suspect it is going bad and thought I might as well.

But the above swap info is wrong. The yellow wire in the ignition switch should go to the yellow wire in the dash harness, not the brown wire. Unless the brown wire is somehow jumpered to the starter relay.

So with the F-Body switch, what is needed to maintain the brown wire functionality is to use a F-Body starter relay. This relay has an additional pin that is powered when the relay is closed, and in a F-Body, it powers the coil side of the ballast resistor like the A-Body harness did through the brown wire.

Can't say with absolute certainty that I will do this, but seems like the right time, even if EFI is still down the road. Either way, couldn't see leaving the wrong info posted and since I can't edit the original post, this will have to suffice.
 
I'm surprised it didn't come with a relay in the wiring harness as the Holley Commander 950 I have does, and I recall even their earliest Pro-jection 2D did. If so, just connect IGN (blue) and IGN2 (brn) together and run that to the relay command wire. You find those wires at the ballast resistor. You can keep the factory female connectors and make a wire jumper w/ male 57 terminals (spades).
 
67Dart273 said:
I have tried to explain this to you. There is ONLY ONE switched "run" source under the hood and that is the IGN1 "ignition run" and it GOES DEAD during cranking. So you must splice the IGN1 and IGN2 which is the (normally brown) resistor bypass circuit together.

There is no magic. The ignition switch only has so many outputs. and these^^ iz it!!

Switch:

Main power IN to the switch, always hot, unfused, from the ammeter circuit

OUT:

Accessory, hot in both acc and "run"
IGN1 "run" sometimes but not always dark blue hot ONLY in run, goes DEAD during "start"

IGN2 the coil bypass circuit sometimes brown. connects to the coil+ side of the ballast

START--the yellow start wire triggers the start relay

That is IT there ain't no mo
Click to expand...
Using a voltmeter I find everything drops to 9v. What gauge wire should I use to jump ballast ?
 
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