400/450 stroker....Cheap parts, lotta work.
I didn't get pictures of the actual damper installation, Cody and I were just having too much fun working together and I forgot to take any pictures.
So from this morning here are pictures of what we used to hone the 440 Source damper to my idea of the correct size. Used the mic to measure the crankshaft snout diameter, set the dial bore gauge to zero with the mic and measured the inside bore size of the damper. There was going to be .002" press fit.
Then we used the wheel cylinder hone for a single cylinder disc brake caliper to hone the damper bore to .001" press fit. You need a hone that has stones wide enough that they don't fall into the keyway slot in the damper while you are honing. For us it was the single cylinder brake caliper hone.
Welcome to our genuine Mopar damper installation kit. I've had two "installation kits" that broke the first time outta the box. This installation kit has never failed me. This time I slathered the long bolt and two washers the the ARP lube and tightened the bolt a bit. Then pulled the bolt back out and added the third washer and went until the short bolt would work with one washer.
We used a dab of oil on the crank snout and a dab on both the inside of the damper bore and the outer surface that runs in the timing cover seal. With crank snout temperature at approximately 70F and the damper at 50F or so, the damper then went up smoothly at less than 50 ft-lbs on the torque wrench and never clicked. I never tried a lower setting on the torque wrench 'cause everything was going so nice I didn't care what the torque really was. Both the Factory Service Manual (FSM) and the 440 Source instructions recommend the final torque on the damper bolt be 135 ft-lbs.
I didn't get pictures of the actual damper installation, Cody and I were just having too much fun working together and I forgot to take any pictures.
So from this morning here are pictures of what we used to hone the 440 Source damper to my idea of the correct size. Used the mic to measure the crankshaft snout diameter, set the dial bore gauge to zero with the mic and measured the inside bore size of the damper. There was going to be .002" press fit.
Then we used the wheel cylinder hone for a single cylinder disc brake caliper to hone the damper bore to .001" press fit. You need a hone that has stones wide enough that they don't fall into the keyway slot in the damper while you are honing. For us it was the single cylinder brake caliper hone.
Welcome to our genuine Mopar damper installation kit. I've had two "installation kits" that broke the first time outta the box. This installation kit has never failed me. This time I slathered the long bolt and two washers the the ARP lube and tightened the bolt a bit. Then pulled the bolt back out and added the third washer and went until the short bolt would work with one washer.
We used a dab of oil on the crank snout and a dab on both the inside of the damper bore and the outer surface that runs in the timing cover seal. With crank snout temperature at approximately 70F and the damper at 50F or so, the damper then went up smoothly at less than 50 ft-lbs on the torque wrench and never clicked. I never tried a lower setting on the torque wrench 'cause everything was going so nice I didn't care what the torque really was. Both the Factory Service Manual (FSM) and the 440 Source instructions recommend the final torque on the damper bolt be 135 ft-lbs.