Got my cam.

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circlepilot

circlepilot

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After a long wait, (core shortages) I got my cam set today...Let the weekend begin! :thumbsup:
Cam.jpg
 
I just can’t quite see the cam card clearly.
Inquiring minds wanna know!
:lol:
 
Something that is a first for me, (but it wouldn't be the first time I've come across something that has been a common practice, but new to me) in the installation instructions, "if you are using double spring assembly, along with a flat tappet cam, you must break in the cam with the outer springs only. Assemble the head with the outer springs only until break-in is achieved."
Norm
 
circlepilot said:
Something that is a first for me, (but it wouldn't be the first time I've come across something that has been a common practice, but new to me) in the installation instructions, "if you are using double spring assembly, along with a flat tappet cam, you must break in the cam with the outer springs only. Assemble the head with the outer springs only until break-in is achieved."
Norm
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Yup. That's the proper procedure for breaking a flat tappet with dual sprAngs. Although I've done a lot of them without removing the inner sprAng and not had a failure......it's really best to do it. That's one of the reasons I stayed clear of a cam with high enough lift to need a double sprAng.
 
There is a another thread on this forum about 1.6 int/1.5 exh rockers.
Notice this cam has 4* less exh duration.
 
Bewy said:
There is a another thread on this forum about 1.6 int/1.5 exh rockers.
Notice this cam has 4* less exh duration.
Click to expand...

Right. That's because of some research and experience Doug Dutra did and a couple aftermarket companies picked up on it. It's not an end all be all, but it works pretty good. Erson had a couple of reverse grinds and now Hughes does too.
 
andrew3408 said:
I don't see this grind on the hughes page is it a special grind for you?
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Yes it is, I talked to the folks, (Dave and James) told them what I was doing and what I was trying to achieve with what I was working with. Everything...Carb, Manifold, head work, valves, pistons, No2, drive train etc. and how the car is to be used. Also I have had a tremendous amount of help from the members here on the forum especially "Charrlie" down in Florida. Hughes came up with the numbers and had the grind made for me.
Norm
 
yeah. i've talked to charrlie several times about my build which will be a 170 slant some people frown at the thought of building the baby motor . but i like it short stroke. and uncle tony from tony's garage said it is a perfect engine to build.. kinda figured it was a special grind..lol
 
andrew3408 said:
yeah. i've talked to charrlie several times about my build which will be a 170 slant some people frown at the thought of building the baby motor . but i like it short stroke. and uncle tony from tony's garage said it is a perfect engine to build.. kinda figured it was a special grind..lol
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The 170 is a good motor. I've watched a lot of Uncle Tony's stuff. I had originally started to build a tricked out 273, 4 speed etc. accumulated it all, (still have everything) then I figured, what the hell, everyone does a small block, so why not the /6, to be differen't. Have some fun with a "sleeper."
Norm
 
cam.jpg
trying to figure out which cam i want to use in this build it will be mainly for the street putting 355 gears in the rearend.. doing a little porting on the head mainly in the bowl area and port match putting 2 1/2 ex. on it a offy 4 bl intake with a 500 cfm edelbrock crb charlie says it is a plug and play . 340 valve springs ( I know i will have to notch the pistons for this cam) what do you guys think??
 
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The STL2420-I6-10 sort of favors your 355s. I think is was referred to me by Hughes as a 70% Street, 30% Race. The 2016-I6-10 has a better operation for higher compression engines, have you milled the head or the block? Your 500cfm will work good on 2420. Did you read the section on their (Hughes)site about choosing the correct cam? It has a lot of questions answered there.
Norm
 
yeah the head will get milled.. the block hasn't.. the engine in the car has 82,560 miles on it.. never been tore down.. so it is a virgin.. figured i would take about 40 thousands off.. now charrlie said to be careful not to get the compression to high they are hard to tune.. that cam recommends a 8.5 to 1 ratio for compression.
 
That is very high lift and little intake-exhaust separation, so will idle poor and rumbly, unless you use Rhoads leak-down lifters (not for solid lifters). Likely not much intake vacuum to operate a brake booster or climate doors. Those look like high-load valve springs too. More for racing than cruising.
 
my car has manual brakes and manual steering so that won't be a problem.. i want a rough idle on the engine.. old drag racer.. love the sound. we will see after i get it all tuned.. i run my v8's with high lift cams cruising too..
 
No, the high lift & reduced exh duration will help both idle quality & vacuum. A good move.
 
HUG STL2016-I6-10

SLANT 6 SLD FLT TPT CAM 220/216 - 110º+4

STREET PERFORMANCE

This cam is designed for mild modified street engines. 8.5:1 compression, standard transmission or automatic with slightly increased stall. Slightly reduced vacuum. Headers, modified spark advance curve, increased carburetion.

For even more performance, ask for a modified spark advance curve that works well with this cam. ( this is what the write up says on that cam)

Sorry for high jacking this post of his.. I should of started another thread..

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BillGrissom said:
That is very high lift and little intake-exhaust separation, so will idle poor and rumbly, unless you use Rhoads leak-down lifters (not for solid lifters). Likely not much intake vacuum to operate a brake booster or climate doors. Those look like high-load valve springs too. More for racing than cruising.
Click to expand...
Since when is 110deg "not much" lobe seperation on a quick rate of lift 220/216@.050 cam? Why bring Rhoads lifters into this thread, full of mech cams? The theoretical lift will not be realized, l was hard-pressed to achieve .470" with a .490" design lift on the intake.
You are correct on the valve spring loads, they're a bit up there, over the head of the 340hp springs by far. Seat loads on the 340 units is only gonna be 70-75# at the designed installed ht.
 
Killer,
I think BillG's comments about int-exh 'separation' was more about only 4* difference between the int & exh duration, not LSA. That is how I read it anyway.
I agree with your 110 LSA comments. Most likely more tq & hp with less LSA combined with reduced duration.
 
I re-read that post 3 times, & the reference to a rough idle/poor vacuum, a by-product of tight lobe centers sealed My impression of BG's conveyed intent. However, if He was addressing circlepilot's cam, He'd be more on-track. But bringing Rhoads lifters into a solid-cam discussion for Slantys either way......
too many times folks jump into threads w/o following the progression of the posts/discussion.
The OP isn't worried about a rumpity idle, the last member that posted cam specs is considerably more so.
 
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