boat hull plug tricks?

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diymirage

diymirage

HP@idle > hondaHP@redline
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hey guys, im getting the boat ready for winter and that got me thinking
is there a trick to getting the hull plug out?

(no i wont remove it for when i hit the lakes)

FH12DJA_WINBOA_03.jpg



it seems like its is frozen in there

now, its just a brass plug in a brass "nut"

i dont want to really reef on it, since i dont want to rip the mounting screws out of the hull
and since the boat is fiberglass, i dont know is getting it really hot is a good idea either

for now, ive been soaking it with WD-40 (i know, i need to get some PB blaster or something)

now, im thinking pulling the 3 mounting screws, and replacing the whole thing, but i dont know that the best way is to seal it up again
 
Many remove from inside the hull. Can you access the inside of the transom?
 
diymirage said:
hey guys, im getting the boat ready for winter and that got me thinking
Click to expand...

Hope you're getting it ready for water instead, we've had enough winter already!

You could take the whole assembly out, repair it, re-seal and re-install it. I just use silicone after the hole is clean and dried out.

Many brass plugs are hollow on the thread end and easy to drill if needed to collapse the threads for removal.

I install the plug using a 4" adjustable so I don't put too much on it.
 
Take 2 of the screws out and replace them 2" long screws of the same thread, snug them into the wood transom.

Now take a large long flat blade screw driver and hold the 2 screws carefully to keep the brass transom fitting from turning.

Now use a wrench on the transom plug and work the large screwdriver and wrench together to turn the brass plug out.

Then remove the 2" long screws and put the 2 original screws back in, shoving some plumber's putty in the 2 holes first.

Plumbers Putty is great for sealing water leaks when you have something to hold it in place.
 
Alaskan_TA said:
Many remove from inside the hull. Can you access the inside of the transom?
Click to expand...


no, the engine is in the way, and it is clearly meant to be accessed from the outside

inertia said:
All my boats with that fitting, use a brass version of the fold-over thermos bottle plug.

WEST MARINE Flip Lock Drain Plugs | West Marine
Click to expand...

i have those in my paddle boats, never considered using one in the big boat
if i ever get this out ill have to look into that



Daves69 said:
Hope you're getting it ready for water instead, we've had enough winter already!

You could take the whole assembly out, repair it, re-seal and re-install it. I just use silicone after the hole is clean and dried out.

Many brass plugs are hollow on the thread end and easy to drill if needed to collapse the threads for removal.

I install the plug using a 4" adjustable so I don't put too much on it.
Click to expand...

yeah, summer
im in michigan, 3 days ago it was snowing and now im walking around barefeet and in a T shirt


George Jets said:
Take 2 of the screws out and replace them 2" long screws of the same thread, snug them into the wood transom.

Now take a large long flat blade screw driver and hold the 2 screws carefully to keep the brass transom fitting from turning.

Now use a wrench on the transom plug and work the large screwdriver and wrench together to turn the brass plug out.

Then remove the 2" long screws and put the 2 original screws back in, shoving some plumber's putty in the 2 holes first.

Plumbers Putty is great for sealing water leaks when you have something to hold it in place.
Click to expand...


thanks, i may have to try this
 
One bolt (or all three) may go all the way through, but one is likely to have a grounding/ bonding strap to the engine. Can you see such a thing? I would try soaking in PB Blaster or some such, apply again every day for at least 3, and if not, remove/ drill out the screws and remove it. At that point you can temporarily mount the housing (bolts) on a scrap board or piece of metal so you can heat/ reef on it.
 
Yes if you can just get it to break free then you got it made, brass is pretty forgiving.

Keep soaking it with penetrating oil. Can even brush in a little diesel fuel, has good penetrating and cleaning qualities to it. Like PB Blaster if you don't have that.
 
67Dart273 said:
One bolt (or all three) may go all the way through, but one is likely to have a grounding/ bonding strap to the engine. Can you see such a thing? I would try soaking in PB Blaster or some such, apply again every day for at least 3, and if not, remove/ drill out the screws and remove it. At that point you can temporarily mount the housing (bolts) on a scrap board or piece of metal so you can heat/ reef on it.
Click to expand...

no i cant see anything under the engine

there is a few inches of water in there, but the bilge pump is dry, so the only way to get it out it so remove the drain
at this point, i think i will replace the whole thing
 
Can always drill through the actual brass drain plug with a 11/32 drill bit, let the water out of the hull.

Then tap 3/8" course threads back into the brass drain plug. Then you can "Plug the Plug" with a 3/8 bolt and some teflon tape.

☆☆☆
 
oldkimmer said:
Every boat I have had uses this plug also. They say to put it in from the inside. Reason being is that it may come out if installed from the rear. I’ve never had that happen in 40 some years. Kim
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Some boats are near impossible to reach the plug from inside. pull boat out of water, remove plug and attatch to keys. Wire spare plug somewhere in boat.

Brains of the outfit near sunk the boat due to not installing plug before launching. Then proceeded to hit the outhouse.
So loaded it back on trailer to drain boat,and install plug. Was an embarrassing moment for him,parks minister was pulling up as boat was draining.
F’er tried to reprimand me,and i gave him a tune up. Think he didnt like it when i implied he was stupid.
 
oldkimmer said:
Every boat I have had uses this plug also. They say to put it in from the inside. Reason being is that it may come out if installed from the rear. I’ve never had that happen in 40 some years. Kim
Click to expand...

Some boats have a sub-hull, between deck and hull.
It's filled with floatation/fuel tank, the deck bonds to hull several inches up the transom, and the lower cavity can only be drained from the outside , as shown above .
Cheers.
 
Last edited:
George Jets said:
Can always drill through the actual brass drain plug with a 11/32 drill bit, let the water out of the hull.

Then tap 3/8" course threads back into the brass drain plug. Then you can "Plug the Plug" with a 3/8 bolt and some teflon tape.

☆☆☆
Click to expand...
That ain't a half bad idea. If you get it centered, you might just keep drilling it larger and eventually weak and thin enough you can screw it out
 
cosgig said:
Just rename your boat “Keep Pluggin”, you know...keep-plug-in?
Click to expand...

Out of the water I leave the plug out.

Tooljunkie said:
Brains of the outfit near sunk the boat due to not installing plug before launching. Then proceeded to hit the outhouse.
So loaded it back on trailer to drain boat,and install plug........
Click to expand...

My old outboard boat had the smooth bore drain and flip plug that installed from inside the boat. The one time I get in a hurry to launch due to others in line for the launch I left the damn plug out. It took 10 or so minutes of cruising for it to empty out the plug hole before I got the plug in.

upload_2021-4-23_19-26-4.png
 
Thanks for all the advise guys, I decided to replace the entire thing
 
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