Worth the effort?

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That is a 5.9l jeep you can tell from the hood vents unless someone swapped the hood.
5.9l Magnum is a great platform easy to get power without too much work.

Here's some dynos of different setups.

1st one Base numbers are stock 5.9l with 4bbl and headers, Mod is edelbrock heads 750 holley airgap and if remember right a comp 275 roller.

2nd is M1 single plane 750 and 230 .512" ish cam




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Is there a recipe for 500ft of Torque rather early but being a complete Tow Truck...

I’d be interested in both stock and stroker recipes
 
take that engine and drop it into a rat rod type thingy dingy...like light weight T bucket or sumtin...
 
Nah, rat rods are not my thing I want to find it a nice duster or dart suit, or if that fails I could stretch into a b body....

a T bucket or any similar style car would not be considered street legal in Sweden with that engine...
 
go for it , the stock heads will support 400+ hp with some work . good luck
 
Nah, rat rods are not my thing I want to find it a nice duster or dart suit, or if that fails I could stretch into a b body....

a T bucket or any similar style car would not be considered street legal in Sweden with that engine...
How much does an a body go for over there?
 
This one goes for like $3,550
The only other abodies are some 4 door variants in ok shape for like $7,000-15,000 or some hatchbacks from $30,000.

But actual good project abodies are hard to find..

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There is a Roadrunner object wich is starting to require some sheet metal work on the floors and trunk and probably other things too. Asking price is $35,500
 
I own 0 inch based tools

what size sockets and normal wrenches do I need in order to take the 360 apart and put it back again?

Disregarding special tools for pulling thing off, that I could probably borrow, as well as getting help with measuring journals and such.
 
Is there a recipe for 500ft of Torque rather early but being a complete Tow Truck...

I’d be interested in both stock and stroker recipes

500lbs-ft is asking little much from a 360, torque is basically one power stroke of the engine and hp is all the power strokes added up over time “rpm”.
 
I thought the jeep 5.9 had the starters on the passenger side, so there may be a difference in the blocks.
I would do a little more homework on this.
 
500 tq from a 360 ? best to stroke it if you want something you can drive everyday and have it last
 
I thought the jeep 5.9 had the starters on the passenger side, so there may be a difference in the blocks.
I would do a little more homework on this.

The junkyard website has the following number noted down as “manufacturer code”
300-08159 If that means anything, the engine was pulled from a Grand Cherokee Limited and is the original engine for the car. I will get new up to date pictures of the engine lifted from the body.

500 tq from a 360 ? best to stroke it if you want something you can drive everyday and have it last
Would 383 do it or is 408 the only size that's even close?
What are the reasonable max rpms of the stock 360, a 383 and 408 stroker?
 
The junkyard website has the following number noted down as “manufacturer code”
300-08159 If that means anything, the engine was pulled from a Grand Cherokee Limited and is the original engine for the car. I will get new up to date pictures of the engine lifted from the body.


Would 383 do it or is 408 the only size that's even close?
What are the reasonable max rpms of the stock 360, a 383 and 408 stroker?

Starter is on the driver side on my jeep 5.9l

hp per cid and rpm
1 hp per cid is kind of the middle ground of performance engines compromise between mild to wild something like a 224 cam airgap 650/750 carb 9:1 cr and headers with a powerband 1000-5000 rpm and a 5500 rpm ish redline with mild stall and 3.23-3.91 gears. Under that more like a truck powerband stock gear and stall and over that goes towards streetstrip to full race engines. eg. 1.25 hp per cid is a healthy street strip type engine with aftermarket heads 235-245 cam airgap/single plane intake 750 plus carb 10-11:1 cr 3000-4500 stall 4.10-4.56 gears etc.. 2500-6000 rpm powerband 6500-7000 ish redline.

Heads are gonna be the main deciding factor of how much power you can make.
 
Starter is on the driver side on my jeep 5.9l

hp per cid and rpm
1 hp per cid is kind of the middle ground of performance engines compromise between mild to wild something like a 224 cam airgap 650/750 carb 9:1 cr and headers with a powerband 1000-5000 rpm and a 5500 rpm ish redline with mild stall and 3.23-3.91 gears. Under that more like a truck powerband stock gear and stall and over that goes towards streetstrip to full race engines. eg. 1.25 hp per cid is a healthy street strip type engine with aftermarket heads 235-245 cam airgap/single plane intake 750 plus carb 10-11:1 cr 3000-4500 stall 4.10-4.56 gears etc.. 2500-6000 rpm powerband 6500-7000 ish redline.

Heads are gonna be the main deciding factor of how much power you can make.
Well we'll see how the stock heads look, I have no idea what kind of heads are available here in Sweden apart from aftermarket alu heads from trickflow and edelbrock, but there is much work to get done before the build part takes place :).
 
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New images of the lifted motor.

I suppose the fuel rails might be busted since the injectors might well be melted stuck into them, the intake might also have melted injector plastic.


So, do I get a go or a no-go for this?

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Get it. Everything that matters is inside and made of steel. I don't think it got hot enough to affect the heads or block. The distributor cap isn't melted.

As for 500lb-ft, any decent 4" stroke crank with heads that will flow 250-ish cfm, 9.5-10:1 compression, and a decent cam should get you there. The stock heads probably could be ported to do it or any of the aftermarket aluminum ones would. The stroker should rev just fine to 6500 depending on heads and cam, and at that power level shouldn't need any trick oiling mods IMO.
 
Get it. Everything that matters is inside and made of steel. I don't think it got hot enough to affect the heads or block. The distributor cap isn't melted.

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X2 only the parts on the outside are hurt.
I have used a few engines that were in a fire, never had any problems getting them running, after removing the crispy items.
 
I want to keep it EFI but will do an open source EFI since I’m an IT guy by daytime.
 
The intake will be fine, but the injectors will need replaced (crispy parts).
 
I own 0 inch based tools

what size sockets and normal wrenches do I need in order to take the 360 apart and put it back again?

Disregarding special tools for pulling thing off, that I could probably borrow, as well as getting help with measuring journals and such.

Taking this apart is gonna be a mixed bag of fasteners, some are going to be inch, some are going to be metric, been awhile since I've been inside a Magnum to remember what's inch and what's not.

Most common inch based sizes needed are gonna be: 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, 11/16, 3/4, you may wish to go on up to 1 inch, your choice; you'll want these in sockets and wrenches, drive sizes of 3/8 and 1/2 inch.

Hope this helps
 
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