Upper Control Arms

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RustyRatRod

I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday.
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I looked on the PST site and didn't see any specifics. Does anyone offer aftermarket upper control arms for or with the small upper ball joint? Thank you drive through.
 
Thanks Denis! How in the world did you find that so quick on the Classic site? I'm like Stevie Wonder when I try to navigate that place.
Google Brother!!! You know you can set up these new phones and all you have to say is... “ok google” find me small ball joint upper control arms for a body Plymouth. She will even talk sexy back to you. Technology is a blessing and a curse mostly a curse.
 
Google Brother!!! You know you can set up these new phones and all you have to say is... “ok google” find me small ball joint upper control arms for a body Plymouth. She will even talk sexy back to you. Technology is blessing and a curse mostly a curse.

I've never really gotten past "show me your boobs" with mine. She always tells me "don't talk to me like that". I guess I don't have what it takes.
 
QA1 also offers them.
I have a set of them that I am going to sell fairly cheap. New, never been used. Installed, but not used.
 
I looked on the PST site and didn't see any specifics. Does anyone offer aftermarket upper control arms for or with the small upper ball joint? Thank you drive through.
OE should be a dime a dozen on here. Why aftermarket?
 
I will not purchase from anyone whose web site I cannot navigate. Classic has a clusterfu$! of a web site, IMO.

Yeah I don't buy anything from Classic. Peter is a class act though if you can't get the QA1 UCA's used from cudamike.

Cant say thats a better way. Especially on a budget

Of course it's a better way. More expensive sure, but better usually is. Offset bushings will get you at most around +3.5° of caster. At most. The QA1's should get you closer to +5° if you want it. No to mention less flex, and no 50 year old rusty suspension parts.

And no need for Moog anything, since the quality of Moog parts has fallen off a cliff. And they're the only ones making the offset UCA bushings.
 
Yeah I don't buy anything from Classic. Peter is a class act though if you can't get the QA1 UCA's used from cudamike.



Of course it's a better way. More expensive sure, but better usually is. Offset bushings will get you at most around +3.5° of caster. At most. The QA1's should get you closer to +5° if you want it. No to mention less flex, and no 50 year old rusty suspension parts.

And no need for Moog anything, since the quality of Moog parts has fallen off a cliff. And they're the only ones making the offset UCA bushings.

I don't know. Is he? He's talked to me in the past like he didn't want to sell me anything.....I'm sure I gave it back to him. You just don't do that to potential customers.....and I don't forget things.

And yes, even though there are several vendors who offer the K7103, which is the correct number for the offset bushings, none of them but the Moogs are offset. Besides, I really want a better way. I have used them before, but this is the 21st century. I plan on some nice uppers, lower urethane bushings, good torsion bars and "someone's" nice strut rods as well. Since I am going with the factory KH disc brakes, I may as well make the rest of it nice, too. Although it's going to remain a slant six car, I want it to be nice.
 
Cant say thats a better way. Especially on a budget

I think they are pretty reasonable and IMO they are better. They do include bushings and ball joints and they are angled for improved caster. If I can get them cheaper, I will. If not, I'll get them as reasonably as possible.
 
Yeah I don't buy anything from Classic. Peter is a class act though if you can't get the QA1 UCA's used from cudamike.



Of course it's a better way. More expensive sure, but better usually is. Offset bushings will get you at most around +3.5° of caster. At most. The QA1's should get you closer to +5° if you want it. No to mention less flex, and no 50 year old rusty suspension parts.

And no need for Moog anything, since the quality of Moog parts has fallen off a cliff. And they're the only ones making the offset UCA bushings.
Cant imagine needing more than 3.5 degrees of caster on a street car and not all components are rusty. Moog is certainly sucking hind tit but I think the bushings are hanging in there.
 
Cant imagine needing more than 3.5 degrees of caster on a street car and not all components are rusty. Moog is certainly sucking hind tit but I think the bushings are hanging in there.

Well, come buy it for $15,500 and you can do what you want with it.
 
I don't know. Is he? He's talked to me in the past like he didn't want to sell me anything.....I'm sure I gave it back to him. You just don't do that to potential customers.....and I don't forget things.

And yes, even though there are several vendors who offer the K7103, which is the correct number for the offset bushings, none of them but the Moogs are offset. Besides, I really want a better way. I have used them before, but this is the 21st century. I plan on some nice uppers, lower urethane bushings, good torsion bars and "someone's" nice strut rods as well. Since I am going with the factory KH disc brakes, I may as well make the rest of it nice, too. Although it's going to remain a slant six car, I want it to be nice.

He is. Peter runs a good business and has some great parts that he makes that no one else does. I've done business with him on several occasions, both on stuff he makes exclusively and stuff he's just a retailer for. Other than the shipping being a little longer because he's on the completely opposite coast from me, I've had no issues. And he's been helpful whenever I've had questions about his products.

That is not to say that we see eye to eye on everything, but that's true for pretty much everyone now isn't it?

Sounds like you have the right plan though, don't forget some greaseable LCA pivot pins if you're going to use poly LCA bushings. They do need to be lubricated, and having the ability to do it later if you have to is very handy.

Cant imagine needing more than 3.5 degrees of caster on a street car and not all components are rusty. Moog is certainly sucking hind tit but I think the bushings are hanging in there.

I run +6.5° caster on my Duster and wouldn't dream of running less, even on the street. And my Duster is my daily, not a track car. It even has 16:1 manual steering, the caster is not an issue. +3.5° caster might be ok with narrower tires, but with the 275/35/18's I run up front you need more to combat the wider tires tendency to track ruts. At +3.5° my 275's would take you where they want to go, the tail wagging the dog as they say. With +6.5° she's rock steady. And I've run everything from +3.5° all the way up to +8° on it, +6.5° is where it wants to be with the set up I have on it.

Most modern cars run +8° of caster or more. A new Challenger SRT8 calls for as much as +10°. Pretty sure that's a street car.
IMG_0507.PNG
 
He is. Peter runs a good business and has some great parts that he makes that no one else does. I've done business with him on several occasions, both on stuff he makes exclusively and stuff he's just a retailer for. Other than the shipping being a little longer because he's on the completely opposite coast from me, I've had no issues. And he's been helpful whenever I've had questions about his products.

That is not to say that we see eye to eye on everything, but that's true for pretty much everyone now isn't it?

Sounds like you have the right plan though, don't forget some greaseable LCA pivot pins if you're going to use poly LCA bushings. They do need to be lubricated, and having the ability to do it later if you have to is very handy.



I run +6.5° caster on my Duster and wouldn't dream of running less, even on the street. And my Duster is my daily, not a track car. It even has 16:1 manual steering, the caster is not an issue. +3.5° caster might be ok with narrower tires, but with the 275/35/18's I run up front you need more to combat the wider tires tendency to track ruts. At +3.5° my 275's would take you where they want to go, the tail wagging the dog as they say. With +6.5° she's rock steady. And I've run everything from +3.5° all the way up to +8° on it, +6.5° is where it wants to be with the set up I have on it.

Most modern cars run +8° of caster or more. A new Challenger SRT8 calls for as much as +10°. Pretty sure that's a street car.
View attachment 1715733042

Thanks for the reminder on the greasable pins. They were part of the original plan, too. The main reason I want the increased caster, is because I plan to keep the rake the car has and I know I'm already losing a little caster because of that.
 
He is. Peter runs a good business and has some great parts that he makes that no one else does. I've done business with him on several occasions, both on stuff he makes exclusively and stuff he's just a retailer for. Other than the shipping being a little longer because he's on the completely opposite coast from me, I've had no issues. And he's been helpful whenever I've had questions about his products.

That is not to say that we see eye to eye on everything, but that's true for pretty much everyone now isn't it?

Sounds like you have the right plan though, don't forget some greaseable LCA pivot pins if you're going to use poly LCA bushings. They do need to be lubricated, and having the ability to do it later if you have to is very handy.



I run +6.5° caster on my Duster and wouldn't dream of running less, even on the street. And my Duster is my daily, not a track car. It even has 16:1 manual steering, the caster is not an issue. +3.5° caster might be ok with narrower tires, but with the 275/35/18's I run up front you need more to combat the wider tires tendency to track ruts. At +3.5° my 275's would take you where they want to go, the tail wagging the dog as they say. With +6.5° she's rock steady. And I've run everything from +3.5° all the way up to +8° on it, +6.5° is where it wants to be with the set up I have on it.

Most modern cars run +8° of caster or more. A new Challenger SRT8 calls for as much as +10°. Pretty sure that's a street car.
View attachment 1715733042
I think my shoulders would not like much more than 3.5 but thats another story. Alwaya like you input and experience 72bluNblu
 
I think my shoulders would not like much more than 3.5 but thats another story. Alwaya like you input and experience 72bluNblu

I am thankful so far, my knees ankles and hips are still in good shape that I can still drive a manual. I've always had a ton of upper body strength so manual steering is no problem, especially as light as this little car is. I'm sure I can stand the extra caster. All I'm looking for is maybe 4 degrees max where the car sits now. It only has about 1.5 degrees now, but it doesn't really drive badly at all, although the front suspension is tired.
 
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