Help with removing stuck pinion yoke

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mopar56

mopar56

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So my son picks up a 8 3/4 sure grip carrier assembly to replace his open with, but there was evidence of the pinion seal leaking so we went to replace it but the yoke is stuck, we tried three different pullers, lots of penetrating fluid , and oxy/ acly heat, no luck so I take it to a machine shop I use periodically but he has the same issue and suggest we cut it off, I suggested maybe he uses a bearing splitter and his 100 ton press with blocks but he says something will break, probably the yoke, so before I cut it off and then try to locate another yoke, any tricks I've missed?
 
mopar56 said:
So my son picks up a 8 3/4 sure grip carrier assembly to replace his open with, but there was evidence of the pinion seal leaking so we went to replace it but the yoke is stuck, we tried three different pullers, lots of penetrating fluid , and oxy/ acly heat, no luck so I take it to a machine shop I use periodically but he has the same issue and suggest we cut it off, I suggested maybe he uses a bearing splitter and his 100 ton press with blocks but he says something will break, probably the yoke, so before I cut it off and then try to locate another yoke, any tricks I've missed?
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Did you remove the nut?
 
Build a four bolt girdle to bolt where your u joint straps go. Burn a hole in the middle, weld a 1/2 nut to the outside of this plate. Use a bolt to screw in that bolt and presses against the pinion. Put it under pressure than smack the head of the bolt. Tighten again smack it again. Etc.
 
Ok Rusty, now that's funny, and yes, SGB, that's a good idea, I actually thought of doing something like that but was worried that the force against the 1/4 inch threads in the yoke would get destroyed , have you actually tried this method?
 
I had one like that, wouldn’t budge. I just left it on there rather then destroy parts. Used a conversion U joint instead.

I have a 2 jaw puller that fits Around the outside of a yokes nicely and it wouldn’t Do anything to it.
 
mopar56 said:
Ok Rusty, now that's funny, and yes, SGB, that's a good idea, I actually thought of doing something like that but was worried that the force against the 1/4 inch threads in the yoke would get destroyed , have you actually tried this method?
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Yes i have. It’s a balancing act, put it under pressure without over tightening and hit the head with a BFH.
 
I like sgbarracuda's idea. Use four grade eight 1/4 28 bolts, you should be good.
Mv first thought was a comealong, hooked to the trans crossmember. Put a loop through the u-joint straps.
I like sgv's idea much better.
 
mopar56 said:
Ok Rusty, now that's funny, and yes, SGB, that's a good idea, I actually thought of doing something like that but was worried that the force against the 1/4 inch threads in the yoke would get destroyed , have you actually tried this method?
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I didn't ask to be funny. I've seen people try removing the yoke without removing the nut. Since you didn't post pictures, I have no way to know, except ask.
 
mopar56 said:
Ok Rusty, now that's funny, and yes, SGB, that's a good idea, I actually thought of doing something like that but was worried that the force against the 1/4 inch threads in the yoke would get destroyed , have you actually tried this method?
Click to expand...

I've used the same method using a hub puller on the old tapered axle 8 3/4. It works very well. Tighten, smack the bolt. Rinse and repeat. It'll come off.
 
Ok, I think I'll get it back from the machine shop and try making a puller as described, too bad I cant just purchase one from Amazon, I seen one for BIG rear riffs.
 
If a puller does not work...

1. Remove the carrier and caps
2. Place the third-member in a press, resting on the machined area where the caps seat
3. Press the pinion through the yoke and front bearing
 
Ok thanks both great ideas, sometimes you cant see the Forrest for the trees, I never thought of pushing out the pinion, all I would have to do is torque it after, and I could inspect the bearings closer to plus it would save me building a puller, I haven't picked this up from the machine shop yet, I'll do that this week and get back at it!
 
If it is a higher gear ratio, 2.76,2.94.3.23. Be careful if you decide to press the pinion out. The pinion head is large and will only press so far before it gets into the side of the case.
 
I would make a puller, apply pressure.
Heat it, with the pressure on the yoke.
Walk away, it will pop loose, it may take a few minutes but it will come loose.
 
You can use a press to crack the yoke loose. The pinion does not need to be completely pressed through the bearing.
 
Put your two jaw puller on it cinch down some pressure, hit it with an air chisel and a ""hammer" bit. hammer a little, then clamp down on the puller a turn or two more, more air chisel.it should walk off. Oh an use PB blaster or some penetrating lube for good luck.:)
 
do you have a car with an 8 3/4 housing that is otherwise running? Put the third member in with the nut loose, but in place, and attach it to the drive shaft. start the car AT IDLE, rock the trans from drive to reverse and back again while holding the brake. I would bet it would break it loose.
 
I picked this back up from the machine shop yesterday I think I'll give it another go after work tonight, I might try the two jaw puller and hitting the end of the puller trick one more time but after that I think I will do as dr diff says and press it out it seems the most effortless. I'll let you all know what happened.
 
Air hammer with a bit that looks like a hammer head. Swinging a hammer under there gets old if you don't have a lift.
 
Ds70, this carrier is not on the car we are getting it ready to replace the open diff currently in the Duster , put I will try again with puller and air hammer one more time before press, thanks
 
mopar56 said:
Ds70, this carrier is not on the car we are getting it ready to replace the open diff currently in the Duster , put I will try again with puller and air hammer one more time before press, thanks
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Yeah I am wondering why that impact wont work. heat may be an option but I don't like going there right away definitely don't get it red hot. if you do. i am thinking you need to reuse the yoke correct? so you dont want to mess that up.
 
mopar56 said:
Ds70, this carrier is not on the car we are getting it ready to replace the open diff currently in the Duster , put I will try again with puller and air hammer one more time before press, thanks
Click to expand...
I am thinking ,if it is out of the car,say in a vise, use a two jaw, apply poressure, smack it with hammer, see if you can turn two jaw a little more, repeat etc. Use a big hammer if need be a 28 oz ball peen or a 32 even. Up it to two pond sledge if ya have to, but smack it a couple times then turn on the two jaw, you should tell if it is moving because you'll be able to keep turning the bolt on the two jaw puller it 1/4 turn increments.. eventually it should just pop loose. Oh and smack the yoke not the two jaw..:)
 
yellow rose said:
It was still funny though. Made me LOL.
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I thought about it bein humorous when I typed it, but that's really not how I meant it. It was one of them kinda delayed reaction kinda funnys. lol
 
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