I prefer the QA1’s for adjustable strut rods, yes. Because they have a double adjuster, setting the length of the strut rod is as easy as loosening the lock nuts and turning the barrel of the strut rod. With the other styles, the connection at the LCA uses a bolt. So, you have to loosen the bolt, then set the length, then tighten the bolt again. But loosening and tightening that rear bolt can change the length a little. And since you have to cycle the suspension through it’s range of travel each time to change the length of the strut rod it can get a little cumbersome. The QA1 strut rods make it very easy to tune the length of the strut rod so there’s no binding in the motion of the LCA in its travel.
The torsion bar does not- not really anyway. The torsion bars are not bottomed out in the LCA hex socket and against the retainer clip in the torsion bar anchor at the same time. Typically there’s a good 1/4” gap (or more) at the clip if the bar is fully seated in the LCA hex. The bars can actually shift back and forth slightly as they’re loaded and unloaded, so the torsion bar does not positively locate the LCA in such a way that it can’t move backward the distance between the length of the bar and the length between the end of the socket and the retainer clip. Even that relatively small amount of movement would result in significant changes in your caster angle.
As far as the strut rods go, yes, that’s literally why they exist as a component in the suspension. But you will never convince OMM that anything other than the rubber in the OE style LCA bushings is what holds the LCA on. You can cite logic, physics, the specific material properties of the different materials used, or appeal to the 10’s of thousands of miles you’ve used poly and Delrin LCA bushings without your LCA’s falling off, it simply doesn’t matter.