Crank no start
It looks to me like you have it right. The end with the jumpers goes to "ignition run". One of the two at the opposite end goes to the coil and the brown bypass wire. But I cannot tell on that end which terminal you have hooked to what. it matters. The "U" in the near end of the ballast in the photo is an index, as the two resistors are different values
This simplified diagram does not show the brown bypass wire, but it must go to the coil+ side of the ballast, and the index marks of the ballast must be as pictured. What they are calling "existing wire" at far top right goes to key on/ ign1 "ignition run"
Anyhow the coil+ cranking voltage should be close to same as battery when cranking. So if battery is say, 11V when cranking, the coil should be close to that, and in no case below 10-10.5V
If you have it wired right, you have voltage drop in the harness somewhere or in the ignition switch or it's connector.
The quite low coil NEG reading is good because it shows the box is conducting through the coil and that the box is therefore trying to operate and that the box is grounded.
One test you can make is to disconnect the dist. connector. Take the ECU end of that connector and tap the bare protruding terminal to ground with the key on. Each time you should get one "snap" spark. That will prove the coil/ box is working. Always cast a suspicious eye to the dist connector for dirt/ corrosion/ looseness, and have a look at the pickup/ reluctor for wobble, shaft wear, damage, rust. etc. Scare yourself up a .008" (inches not metric) feeler and check the reluctor to pickup gap You set it just like breaker points by adjusting the pickup with a set screw
It looks to me like you have it right. The end with the jumpers goes to "ignition run". One of the two at the opposite end goes to the coil and the brown bypass wire. But I cannot tell on that end which terminal you have hooked to what. it matters. The "U" in the near end of the ballast in the photo is an index, as the two resistors are different values
This simplified diagram does not show the brown bypass wire, but it must go to the coil+ side of the ballast, and the index marks of the ballast must be as pictured. What they are calling "existing wire" at far top right goes to key on/ ign1 "ignition run"
Anyhow the coil+ cranking voltage should be close to same as battery when cranking. So if battery is say, 11V when cranking, the coil should be close to that, and in no case below 10-10.5V
If you have it wired right, you have voltage drop in the harness somewhere or in the ignition switch or it's connector.
The quite low coil NEG reading is good because it shows the box is conducting through the coil and that the box is therefore trying to operate and that the box is grounded.
One test you can make is to disconnect the dist. connector. Take the ECU end of that connector and tap the bare protruding terminal to ground with the key on. Each time you should get one "snap" spark. That will prove the coil/ box is working. Always cast a suspicious eye to the dist connector for dirt/ corrosion/ looseness, and have a look at the pickup/ reluctor for wobble, shaft wear, damage, rust. etc. Scare yourself up a .008" (inches not metric) feeler and check the reluctor to pickup gap You set it just like breaker points by adjusting the pickup with a set screw