273 Bore Taper

The ring gap moves .0031416 for every one thou of bore growth. .... so .019 for .006 borechange.
and most of the growth happens in the last inch, ............ which is where the compression makes the most difference. So yeah the ringlands are taking a chitkicking from the sideways scrubbing, but they might be seeing a good oil supply on the underside and they are 2 to 3 times as wide as is the edge-contact where the temperature is gonna soar, especially as the hot gasses try to scoot past the now-opening ring gaps. Pow! the hot gasses hit the oilrings, and that is why your pistons are coated with varnish.

I know, fixing this is gonna be expensive. 273 Pistons are not cheap. And yes you can just slam it together, if yur not looking for a long-term engine. But;
IMO, you are better off building a hi-compression anything, than just slamming a re-ringed 273 with .007 bore taper, in there. The ringlands are already scrubbed from running that way previously, and there is no good bandaid for that taper-situation.
But hang-on; not only is the compression leaking away, consider what is happening on the intake stroke. The ring gaps have to be adequate as the piston is falling so that the gaps do not butt on the power stroke. So that means the gaps at the top will end up at least .019 too big at the beginning of the intake stroke. That's on top of the probably .028 they need to start with. So now you have a top gap of .047! And on the intake stroke, there is a good chance that the low pressure in the chamber, at idle to low-rpm and mid-throttle settings, is gonna pull up air from the crankcase. Air with oil vapors in it. It doesn't take much oil in the chambers to destroy the octane rating of your fuel. So if you get into detonation with your 8/1 273, and have to run 91 instead of 87E10, with retarded timing; How long can that go on before it wouldda been cheaper to just rebore it. I mean IDK, it depends on how many miles a year that you are planing to run it. I mean, $1000 buys a lotta gas difference.
So, as you know, the 4-stroke engine has 4 or more parts to it, none of which are helped by bore-taper.
Besides compression and intake, are power and exhaust. On the power stroke at about 25 to 28 degrees past TDC, is where the design max pressure should occur. But if the pressure has been leaking past the rings for these 25/28 degrees, how much is left over to actually push the pistons down? IDK, just asking.
The top one inch of piston-travel is the most important part of piston travel in the 4-stroke cycle, except maybe on the exhaust stroke with a short-period cam. Leakage here can break your performance/economy expectations, not to mention the time between oil-changes and adding oil.