AJ's Opinion; Just for you 318 streeters

AJ/FormS said

I'll give you that, but the big port heads don't do much for you either until the rpm gets up, and then the stock cam chokes up.
So then to take advantage of those heads, you gotta jump the cam up. If you choose the 268/276/114, 340 cam, with no other changes, that is an instant recipe for a weak bottom end. With no rear gear change either, the power LOSS at low rpms will offset the subtle power increase over the top, and with a speed limit of 65mph, I lost performance every time I did it, cuz when she hit second gear the engine was way off the cam; hopelessly drowning in sucked out territory.
But yeah with 4.30s and a 2800, things picked up some. But 4.30s were lousy on the hiway.

I got way more performance by bolting all the 318 stuff including the cam, onto a 340.

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I think your interpretation of what folks are saying might not be accurate. I don't think anyone is arguing that a 318 is a quicker, faster engine choice over a 340 or 360, or 440. I think what is being stated is if a person has a 318 and wants to "biff it up" a bit, by all means do it. And, it can be mildly done with improvements on bottom end torque as well as top RPM. It's precisely why I did the low dollar 318 build 5 years ago. I threw UNDER 500 bucks at a 318 2bbl, no headers, 2.76 gears and ran BETTER than a factory '73 340 Duster with 3.21's. IF this is what a person is shooting for, what's wrong with it??? I since sold the 4bbl/intake and replaced it with dual quads, so now it's 750 dollar motor. Guess what? I'll race any stone-stock 340 3.23 car. Maybe I win, maybe I lose, but I didn't pay 1200 bucks for a core long block either.