The ammeter bypass was never as much about bypassing the ammeter, but more about getting the high current wires out of the bulkhead connector. Running the charging wire directly to battery positive (through a properly sized fusible link, naturally) is really the safest way to handle this, and that takes the ammeter out of the equation anyway, so there is no reason to keep it at that point.
You can reach up under the dash without removing anything and move one wire so both are on the same post. Takes two minutes. If the gauge is fried anyway, why not just do it?
