66 273 to a 65 A833 and all into 67 dart?

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Troub

Troub

67 Dart 270, 225 slant six
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Would like any and all opinions on this please. Possibilities/problems mating a 65 A833 trans to a 66 273 and putting that in my 67 Dart that came with a slant 6 and 904.
Please respond with all the knowledge available!
Thanks,
Troub
 
I believe you will need a longer drive shaft, plus it would be a good idea to change the ball and trunnion to the upgraded version . The old style ball and trunnion will not last very long if you intend to have a little fun

Also k frames are different you need to find conversion motor mounts Schumacher sells them but he is having production problems. Not to mention wiring harness will be different you will need to drill holes for the z bar bracket that is also different , brewers performance will have most parts for the 4 speed conversation.

I can 100% tell you its going to be alot of work
 
Early a body said:
I believe you will need a longer drive shaft, plus it would be a good idea to change the ball and trunnion to the upgraded version . The old style ball and trunnion will not last very long if you intend to have a little fun

Also k frames are different you need to find conversion motor mounts Schumacher sells them but he is having production problems. Not to mention wiring harness will be different you will need to drill holes for the z bar bracket that is also different , brewers performance will have most parts for the 4 speed conversation.

I can 100% tell you its going to be alot of work
Click to expand...
Thanks Early A Body!
More opinions and thoughts please!! I know your’e out there. I was happy to find the A833 4 speed in my general vicinity but need info before pulling the trigger.
 
You'll need a ball & trunion driveshaft to go with the '65 833.
The '65 speedometer cable should mate to your '67 speedometer.
Use '67 and up pedals and clutch linkage.
Throttle linkage may need to be modified from the /6 one in the '67, don't recall if the '67 slants still used mechanical linkage or cable.
Will need a '69 and earlier V8 radiator.
Need '67 and up 273/318 exhaust manifolds or headers.
Need swap mounts/brackets for smallblock into '67-'72 /6 K frame. Schumacher went bye-bye, so try TransDapt. Most kits are for 340/360 so some mods will be required. Plan B: Modify '70s truck mounts. Plan C: build your own.
 
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That will work nicely. You will need 67-up motor mount brackets and K frame (or /6 to SB adapter motor mounts) , exhaust manifolds, clutch pedals, 67 floor hump, 67 up bell housing and clutch linkage. Now would be the time to upgrade to a 10.5 clutch. You will possibly need to modify and balance your drive shaft.
 
BTW, make sure that 833 is an A body unit. It's a whole different ballgame if it's a B body.
And I'm assuming the 273 is from a passenger car, not a truck. Then you'd be looking for a different pan and pickup. Make sure the 273 is drilled for a pilot bearing, because it has the early small hub register in the crank which means you can't use the later model roller bearing in the crank as a substitute.
And I forgot to mention the need for the 4 speed floor hump.
 
One of the engine mount holes on the 66 block needs to be drilled for the 67 mounts.
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Also one of the heads heeded a hole added, would have been easier to do off the stand or swapped with the other side putting it in the front.
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Alan
 
Professor Fate said:
BTW, make sure that 833 is an A body unit. It's a whole different ballgame if it's a B body.
And I'm assuming the 273 is from a passenger car, not a truck. Then you'd be looking for a different pan and pickup. Make sure the 273 is drilled for a pilot bearing, because it has the early small hub register in the crank which means you can't use the later model roller bearing in the crank as a substitute.
And I forgot to mention the need for the 4 speed floor hump.
Click to expand...
Yep, the A833 is out of a 65 Dart.
 
66fs said:
That will work nicely. You will need 67-up motor mount brackets and K frame (or /6 to SB adapter motor mounts) , exhaust manifolds, clutch pedals, 67 floor hump, 67 up bell housing and clutch linkage. Now would be the time to upgrade to a 10.5 clutch. You will possibly need to modify and balance your drive shaft.
Click to expand...
Thanks for all the info fella’s!
 
I think the best idea is to purchase a donor-car that already has everything you need;

By the time you collect all that you will need, I think you would be bucks ahead, and then you might still have stuff to sell when yur done.....

Whatever you do, make sure you get V-8 pedals, which are set up for a 10.5 clutch.
 
Early a body said:
I believe you will need a longer drive shaft, plus it would be a good idea to change the ball and trunnion to the upgraded version . The old style ball and trunnion will not last very long if you intend to have a little fun

Also k frames are different you need to find conversion motor mounts Schumacher sells them but he is having production problems. Not to mention wiring harness will be different you will need to drill holes for the z bar bracket that is also different , brewers performance will have most parts for the 4 speed conversation.

I can 100% tell you its going to be alot of work
Click to expand...
Ball and trunnion will be more than strong enough my dads 64 valiant has been abused for 4 years now and with a hot 360 beating on it.
 
thesiren74 said:
Ball and trunnion will be more than strong enough my dads 64 valiant has been abused for 4 years now and with a hot 360 beating on it.
Click to expand...

Then you have been really lucky they are as week as the 7 1/4 and not a good idea in a performance 4 speed situation. On all the 4 speed early a bodies I have had I have damaged all the ball and trunnions. Now I just automatically upgrade to the conversion set up regardless if auto or 4 speed. I have never been able to destroy one with a slant six yet- I hope I have not cursed myself-
 
thesiren74 said:
Ball and trunnion will be more than strong enough my dads 64 valiant has been abused for 4 years now and with a hot 360 beating on it.
Click to expand...
Yup- even the Maxies & Hemis ran through ball & trunions. Nothing wrong with them. The biggest problem is that it's getting difficult to find rebuild/service kits for them, so most people end up going with the adapter setup now.
Hell, B&Ts are still being used on new cars, probably more so than U joints. They just call them CVs now.
 
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Professor Fate said:
Yup- even the Maxies & Hemis ran through ball & trunions. Nothing wrong with them. The biggest problem is that it's getting difficult to find rebuild/service kits for them, so most people end up going with the adapter setup now.
Hell, B&Ts are still being used on new cars, probably more so than U joints. They just call them CVs now.
Click to expand...
Thanks again for all the thoughts and ideas guys!!!
 
Early a body said:
Then you have been really lucky they are as week as the 7 1/4 and not a good idea in a performance 4 speed situation. On all the 4 speed early a bodies I have had I have damaged all the ball and trunnions. Now I just automatically upgrade to the conversion set up regardless if auto or 4 speed. I have never been able to destroy one with a slant six yet- I hope I have not cursed myself-
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It's been in there since 64 so i think it's good.
 
Early a body said:
Then you have been really lucky they are as week as the 7 1/4 and not a good idea in a performance 4 speed situation. On all the 4 speed early a bodies I have had I have damaged all the ball and trunnions. Now I just automatically upgrade to the conversion set up regardless if auto or 4 speed. I have never been able to destroy one with a slant six yet- I hope I have not cursed myself-
Click to expand...
What makes them weaker? I have a b&t that I got for my 65 cuda that I planned on putting a snotty small block in front of. Any info is great. ThAnks
 
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