Car getting real hot....

I wouldn't be too concerned about 200-205 degrees. With your rad cap & antifreeze in the motor you should be able to see 210-215 safely without blowing the cap. Back in the eighties I had a 13-1 340 & it ran all day at 180 to 210 degrees.
Don't forget that antifreeze not only stops your motor from freezing but also raises the boiling temp of your coolant.
This is correct.
Additionally the pressure cap also raises the boiling point. Once the coolant boils, that's when control of the heat transfer is lost.

Normal (stock) coolant temperatures are roughly middle of the gage (180). A little more than middle is not a problem. The thermostat helps insure the engine gets up to the intended minumum temperature. Under normal driving conditions, oil temperatures will be similar to the coolant temperature. Getting the oil hot is very helpful getting rid of moisture that has condensed in the engine.

Lets look at the original expected coolant temps.
1966 Dodge Dart Coronet FSM
upload_2021-6-17_10-36-4.png

1970 Plymouth FSM

'upload_2021-6-17_10-31-7.png

Notice with the earlier cars, 175 degrees is the minimum where the radiator is allowed to begin to aid in cooling. Further that full flow to the radiator is not expected until the temperature gets up to 200 degrees.

With the later cars using 190 and 195 degree thermostats full flow doesn't take place until 210 and 215 F.

Another point of reference can be had from smogged vehicles equiped with coolant temperature overide switches. For example the HD CTO used by AMC Jeep to head off overheating at idling with A/C running on a hot day kicks in when the coolant hits 220 F.

If someone wants to run their engine cooler, that's fine.
My point here is that coolant temps in the range being discussed, 190 F to 210 F, are not by themselves an indication of a problem.