Torsion Bar Install

I'm dealing with something like this right now on my 75 Duster 318. I rebuilt my front end a couple of years ago and installed slightly larger .890 bars. Had it aligned in the fall and it drifted all over the road. I put it away for the winter, didn't drive it all last summer and now I'm driving it again. It's like navigating a shopping cart down the freeway. It was sitting almost on the bump stops, so I cranked it up to 1" of spacing and then the rear end was uneven. I figured I was off one increment on the RH torsion bar and have it all apart now. Upper ball joint disconnected, brake line, shock, strut bar, adjustment bolt out and lever pushed down to limit, LCA hanging down until it hits the frame and I can't quite get the torsion bar to line up. It needs to rotate another few degrees. I should note that the LCA pivot hole did break and wallow out years ago and I welded a plate over it to repair. Maybe it's not positioned correctly - it was a little bit of a guess. Still have no confidence that if I solve all of this, the bars are going to be correct. Should I get new bars? Should I have to disconnect everything and swing a LCA all the way down to install them?

It's totally normal to have to disconnect everything and allow the LCA to swing all the way down to install the torsion bar. In fact, that is the procedure outlined in the factory manual.

It is of course possible something is out of alignment if you did some welding on the LCA pivot tube in the K frame, but so far I don't see a reason to suspect that's an issue.

Why did you pull the torsion bar? It's not uncommon for the torsion bar adjuster settings to be different from one side to the other. That difference should be slight, but honestly its probably more unusual for the torsion bar adjuster settings to be identical than it is for them to be a little different. You're talking about a 46 year old uni-body after all. And you probably don't have all the loads in the car perfectly balanced either. Also, if your torsion bars weren't new, it's totally possible they haven't aged identically. A little more sag on one side than other can create the difference in ride height or the need for a different adjustment side to side to get the car level.

As for the shopping car feeling, that's most likely because the alignment was done using factory specifications. If you have radial tires and factory alignment specs, well, the car will feel like that because the alignment is wrong. You need more positive caster for radial tires. The alignment needs to be done anyway if you've changed the ride height, as that will also change the alignment. You should base your new alignment on the SKOSH chart.

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