I Need help 410 Stroker timing Carb Education

That new pressure is gonna do 4 things;
1) it will increase torque/power thru-out the rpm range; especially down low, and
2) increase your Part-Throttle response and torque at low throttle openings, and
3) the power peak will come down about 200 rpm or bit more.
4) with the Effective overlap restored, you should see an increase in power. That cam only has a small amount of overlap so you can't afford to give any away. Straight-up (110) to 108 is the window.

But, at very low rpm, the pressure will be pretty high. I think with the combination of 3.91s and 2800TC, it will be fine. But I know that with a clutch. you would need to take some Idle-Timing out of it, to smooth the drive-away. If you find that she's a lil jumpy from idle to stall, that's the first place I would go. With the 274 cam and alloy heads; I would try
12 to 14* Idle;(whatever gets the T-slot in a happy place.)
32* to 34 Power, and
I would use a two step curve with 28* at stall (2800IIRC),
and the rest whenever... maybe as late as 3600 on the street.
With alloy heads, My 367 is happy with 87E10 at those specs, and pressure as high as 185psi.

Note-1
I found the one-long loop spring that this will require in an old 318 distributor. But the I found all aftermarket springs were too fast on the first part of the curve. After I found a spring that got me into the ballpark, I ground a bunch of weight off the flyweights until I got what I thought the engine really liked.

Note-2
To make working on the D easier, I threw that horseshoe clip away, and drilled/tapped the top of the shaft for a tiny allen-socket screw, then cut a spacer so my screw didn't jam it all up. Now swapping springs only takes seconds after the cap is off. With the two-step timing-curve I strongly advise that you map your curve each time you change spring(s), to see what happens.