bulkhead Ammeter connectors

I have my own reasons for changing the amp gauge to a volts gauge. In my opinion a gauge is simply a reporter. It shouldn't be able to interrupt what it reports. The fuel doesn't stop flowing when a fuel gauge fails. Same for oil and temp gauges. Amp gauge failure stops the electrical flow/system. Volts gauge does not.
In the rally panel the fuel gauge has the voltage limiter inside it, so it is chassis grounded. That path to ground is right beside the amp gauge which is fire cracker hot. If/when the black matting frame in that pod breaks away from the stakes, the frame shorts amp gauge to fuel gauge, aluminum fuel gauge needle turns to white ash, disappears instantly. I have 2 rally fuel gauges here that this happened to. One of them has a burn scar in the screen. My best guess is driver tapping on the lens because one or more of the gauges was not working. The mounting nuts behind them loosen, gauge(s) becomes intermittent. "DO NOT TAP ON THE GLASS". Good luck with yours.
I can be persuaded when it comes to safety..
So say hypothetically if I leave the amp gauge in place and bolt the ammeter connectors together and insulate good and tie up under dash.. then install a temporary volt gauge under dash . Then I could always bring back to original if I please or sell car..
Would this eliminate your concerns? ( I realize I will still have the bulkhead connector issue..)
Also I bypassed my "in fuel gauge" limiter and am using a RTE solid state limiter .. (picture) thanks RedFish
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