Degreeing a Cam, or not.....

Yes, My next step is to remove the rockers and test again on the lifters directly. If the results are the same I will break it down completely. Then the only debate is do I replace the camshaft or make the current one work. The reason I contemplate changing it is 2 fold. First, I have changed my thoughts on the use of the car. I no longer want to use nitrous or other boosters so the original cam may not be the best. Second, Many knowledgeable people here say that the cam is not right for the motor. My main purpose now is different from before as well. I no longer want to have just a strip car. Now I have a great street hot rod that I can drive to the track and lay down some good times. I want to be in the lower half of 11s but I don't need to be under 10.90 as I don't want to install a roll cage. This is my current setup and I want to keep the solid lifters if possible.

1973 Plymouth Scamp
RB 512ci, 440 source stroker kit with lightweight crankshaft, forged pistons, 10.83 CR. Trick Flow 240 heads, 440 source aluminum rockers 1.5RR, Trick flow single plane intake. Holley super sniper EFI, hyperspark ignition, coil and distributor. TTI 2 inch headers. Hughes 3000 stall converter. 727 transmission with transgo tf2 valve body mods. B&M Quicksilver shifter. Gear vendors overdrive to 8 3/4 rear end with 3.91 gears, braced in back. SS leaf springs. Competition engineering race shocks. Pypes exhaust 3" into 2.5 inch. RacePro mufflers. Mickey Thompson ET street SS Drag radials 255/60-15 27.3 inch) but going to 275/60-15 28.2 inch diameter. Current cam specs 244/252 @ .050”, 282/290 adv, .516”/.537” lift(1.5:1 rocker), 112 sep, .016”/.018” lash, Solid lifter from Oregon Cams.

FWIW, I have never built a hotrod before. I rebuilt a 1950 chevy 235 motor. When I was young I was a precision machinist for 12 years before, during and after dental school. So I know my way around tools. This car went from and an empty shell without a motor installed and no transmission. I started with a bare block and put everything together, motor, rebuilt the transmission, redid the upholstery.... everything except the body started from scratch. The only time I did not measure and double check the assembly was this dumb omission on the cam degreeing . Oh what I have learned. As Reagan said, "Trust, but Verify". I trusted but did not verify. I enjoy the journey and, while this is a nuisance, I chalk it up to a learning experience. I am better because of it. Many people have very nice that others have built for them and I could have had someone build me a car. That was not what I wanted. I wanted to do it myself. I have. And I thank all of you who have helped me along the way. No way I could have done this without the support and encouragement from FABO. Thanks again for everything.

I like your car, I like the way you are doing your car however you want to do it. I like the cam you selected as it may give you better drivability on the street. Now that your goals have changed.

Reading through your list of components, I see you have a gear vender overdrive unit that is great for freeway driving, 75 mph so you are not over revving the engine just going down the highway, with the 3.91 rear gears.

On the flip side the gear vender's extra set of gears, bearings, and fluid could be just enough extra resistance to burn the 1 second time off from your 11 second 1/4 mile goal.

Not easy making it both a drag car and a street car to drive to the track.

Like the whole car and the fact you are doing it yourself.

Following along here.

Thanx

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