Ignition help needed (stumped)
The big red wire through the grommet into the interior seems to be the battery "going in" and that seems to be the optional 65A alternator commonly known as "fleet/police/taxi" wiring. This was a modification to the ammeter circuit and normally was improved. If you have it there and not at the fuse panel, you need to disconnect the battery, drop the column, and pull the inst. cluster so you can "get in there." What you are looking at is the main ammeter circuit. The red wire feeds in direct to the ammeter, the black comes off to the welded splice, and the welded splice splits off back out to the ammeter, to the ignition siwtch, and to the fuse panel "hot" buss. NONE OF THAT is fused except for the fuse link Here is a simplified diagram from the Mad Electrical
The main difference with yours is that the RED goes through a separate grommet for the 65A alternator as mentioned
What you want to do is access the ammeter terminals and check for battery power at the fuse panel "hot" buss the main feed into the ignition, the headlight switch, and out at the ammeter stud. If some of those have power but one/ some do not, it has to be in that welded splice. It of course could be the ammeter terminals or wire ends if NONE has power
The big red wire through the grommet into the interior seems to be the battery "going in" and that seems to be the optional 65A alternator commonly known as "fleet/police/taxi" wiring. This was a modification to the ammeter circuit and normally was improved. If you have it there and not at the fuse panel, you need to disconnect the battery, drop the column, and pull the inst. cluster so you can "get in there." What you are looking at is the main ammeter circuit. The red wire feeds in direct to the ammeter, the black comes off to the welded splice, and the welded splice splits off back out to the ammeter, to the ignition siwtch, and to the fuse panel "hot" buss. NONE OF THAT is fused except for the fuse link Here is a simplified diagram from the Mad Electrical
The main difference with yours is that the RED goes through a separate grommet for the 65A alternator as mentioned
What you want to do is access the ammeter terminals and check for battery power at the fuse panel "hot" buss the main feed into the ignition, the headlight switch, and out at the ammeter stud. If some of those have power but one/ some do not, it has to be in that welded splice. It of course could be the ammeter terminals or wire ends if NONE has power