Is anyone running 10” wide wheels on all four corners
It's an opinion based on his inquiry. Nowhere does he state what the car is being used for. You're basing your answer on him spending a few thousand on wheels, tires and suspension parts. Mine was as a regular driver. That doesn't make it factually incorrect. If he's going to cut up the car as some examples show then there are obvious repercussions. Keep right on believing that your opinion is the only one that matters. You're in great company as we see it everyday.
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Well, let's see what you actually wrote...
IMO 10" all the way around? You don't want those results...trust me. You'll never be able to turn and lifting the rear to accomplish the fit will get old quick.
First, you had no idea what results the OP was looking for when you posted that. The OP has posted he's trying to make the car handle better since your original post, so it would seem he DOES want the results.
As for - "You'll never be able to turn" - well, that's total BS. 100% factually incorrect. Doesn't matter what your opinion is on that, the facts say otherwise. Turning is not an issue, even with manual steering.
Next up- "lifting the rear to accomplish the fit" - well, that's totally unnecessary. You can get 10" wide wheels to fit without lifting the car at all if you do it the right way. It's not really even a good way to gain clearance on a Dart because of the low rear wheel openings. Heck done properly you can lower the car and still clear 10" rims no problem.
As for the rest of it, the OP just wanted to know if it can be done. It can. I never said it was cheap or easy, but that wasn't the question now was it?
So yeah, 10's can be made to fit on all 4 corners. That's not an opinion, those are the facts. Is doing it right going to be expensive? Hell yes. But if the goal is handling, then it's well worth it.
Mine was also a slanty. And light yellow at that. No sleep lost.
I actually trimmed them only a little bit, cut into the tire, then trim a little more, more cut on sharp turns, cut a little more fender.
I really don't like the dirt cut so I'm going to factory crease the edges of the extended wheel well.
I figured as soon as the wing went on the car, that the purists would hate me regardless of what I do to the car.
I've got some pure cars, but they don't get the people waving and jumping up and down and yelling for burn outs every time I drive them.
This one gets the attention! by the cops too.
It does find the ruts. That's about my only issue. Eventually would like to figure out what I should do to stop the rut magnet.
No power steering either. I destroyed my upper balls and replaced them. Then went with a factory alignment. Drives fine. but can use some work.
Best way to solve the rut seeking of the wide front tires is to increase positive caster. I've run everything from +4° all the way up to +8° caster, I've found that on my car that +6.5° is the happy medium between controlling the rut seeking tendency and making the steering effort exponentially more difficult. I also run manual steering, a 16:1 box at that. It's still very manageable, although parallel parking can be a bit of a chore. Anything over 10mph is a dream.
Factory alignment isn't the way to go with radials anyway. I run -1° camber, +6.5° caster, and 1/16" toe in.
I’m doing a k member swap soon and will be on coil overs. Just curious if it can be done.
As autoxcuda pointed out the track width may change depending on what conversion and brakes you're using. Some of the conversions may also change your turning radius, although usually that improves tire clearance because some of the racks don't allow as much steering angle.
Why the conversion to coilovers? You can handle just as well or better with a properly tuned torsion bar set up, and save yourself a bunch of cash too.