8 3/4 swapped in but....thrust button?

FWI
for those following along;
When traveling in a straight line with same sized tires, everything inside the diff is rotating together, so NO wear will occur on the buttons or the spacer, or the axle ends. Gear oil is a notoriously slippery substance, and when you add the whale-oil, it only gets more slippery. I have seen 20 year old axles come out with nearly no wear indicated.
With that in mind, when my axles came up a lil short, I just tack-welded a small ordinary washer onto each axle, and set up the end play as per the usual.
Back in the day, I was swapping pumpkins several times every summer sorting my DD out. So those welded washers got lots of inspections. I'm gonna guess that the last inspection mightabin in 2006. I have never since then had to adjust my end-play, so I'm assuming the washers are still doing their jobs.
If you have tapered Timkins, you have to set the end-play to center the bearings and to distribute the load equally among them. When you Hotrod around corners, the weight shifts to the outside wheel and the Timkin becomes a combination load-carrying bearing and a Thrust-bearing. Because they are tapered rollers, they absorb that abuse and come up un-phased about it. But all the rear weight, plus that thrust generated by the turning, is being absorbed by the center spacer, properly called a thrust block, and in my case by the washer. So to prevent them from getting jack-hammered, by my driving style, I set the Endplay tighter than by the book. I keep an eye on it by push-pulling on the body transversely, and listening for the tell-tale, clunk-clunk.
Endplay also changes as the Timkins wear out. I packed mine with black Moly-Grease
So far so good.