Subframe connectors for a driver/cruiser, necessary to weld to floor?
Welding them to the floor is not necessary. And, unless someone shows me an actual structural analysis of the chassis I think that saying one style of connector is better than another is a total guess. I used 1.5"x3" tubing, the benefit to that vs 2x3" is that it stays flush to the floor and the frame rails. With 2x3" it either hangs down further than the frame rails or has to be cut into the floor.
I've installed both the US Cartool style that weld completely to the floor and I've made my own. Making your own out of rectangular tubing is MUCH easier than welding the US Cartool style to the floor, there's no way I'd do that again without putting the car on a rotisserie. And the tubular style do make a significant difference in chassis flex.
Here's my install of the tubular style
My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head
Welding them to the floor is not necessary. And, unless someone shows me an actual structural analysis of the chassis I think that saying one style of connector is better than another is a total guess. I used 1.5"x3" tubing, the benefit to that vs 2x3" is that it stays flush to the floor and the frame rails. With 2x3" it either hangs down further than the frame rails or has to be cut into the floor.
I've installed both the US Cartool style that weld completely to the floor and I've made my own. Making your own out of rectangular tubing is MUCH easier than welding the US Cartool style to the floor, there's no way I'd do that again without putting the car on a rotisserie. And the tubular style do make a significant difference in chassis flex.
Here's my install of the tubular style
My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head