Garrett Ellison said

Give us the cam specs and what the installed centerline is. Also, altitude, crank stroke, and rod length. You may be able to retard the cam four degrees to bleed off some compression if you have detonation problems you find are impossible to tune out. I would recommend a proper solid lifter cam (well really a mechanical roller with matching hardware, if you can afford it) in any stroker build. Really a waste of a good stroker kit if the valve opening rate isn't maximized, unless you built it for a motorhome or a dump truck. A flat tappet hydraulic might be okay if it's big enough, but I wouldn't risk it with the current lifter issues.

Click to expand...