Sure, continue with it after the below post, adding in…
This old racers trick is often misused and done wrong or at the very least, not resulting in the findings vs a dyno result. When adding on a straight pipe the same size as the collector, your effectively making a longer collector. This move adds low end torque. If you use this added power, at the starting line launch, it’s an edge off the line.
Tye best way to know for sure is through dyno testing. The amount of added collector pipe will be a certain length. This length is variable where only a dyno test will show exactly or via testing and measuring the guessed lengths show over trial and error over time the best results at the track. This is where the exhaust ends for max power. It may be OK at the track to run no mufflers, it may not be. If it is not OK to run open headers as is the case with most street cars, how do you keep that added power and quite down the exhaust?
Where the added collector pipe ends, form a box shaped like a Hersey chocolate Kiss to attach at the end of the collector pipe. This is where the exhaust pulse effectively ends and send the negitive pressure wave back up the exhaust pipe and header tubes for the next induction cycle.
On the small end or exit end of the cancellation box, continue with your exhaust pipe into your muffler system. As long as the muffler has a flow rate capacity of 2.2 cfm per HP as taught by David Vizard, you’ll have an effective no loss (or really close to a zero loss) exhaust system. So choose your muffler(s) wisely.
This is the book you should read (IMO)
Proceed to chapter 13, then 14.
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