1972 Duster wiring troubleshooting
Go to MyMopar and download yourself a factory service manual which is FREE. That manual and some others over there, by the way, came from the guys on HERE. Also get into the "wiring diagrams" section there and download the aftermarket 2-page diagrams, which are not as detailed, and leave out some options but can be easier to follow. We can help you wade through this.
YOU MAY HAVE the age old problem with the bulkhead connector, fuse link, ammeter circuit. READ this article and even if you don't perform this bypass or in the manner the article lays out, it at least details a good overview of "how' and "why" of this problem
The main power to the lights and fuse panel "hot" buss as well as main power to the key switch comes of the "welded splice" which is in the large BLACK ammeter wire a few inches from the ammeter, and wrapped up in the under-dash harness
You may have a couple of possibilities........One is that you may be checking voltage WHILE THERE IS NO load turned on, and getting a false reading. This means that "if that is so" the trouble could be anything in the path, Wire terminal bad leading to the fuse link, the link itself, the bulkhead connector, connections at the ammeter, the ammeter itself, or the welded splice could have failed which DOES happen. These points in red--follow along on the diagram posted--are really the main characters in problems with main power loss
Try rechecking your results with the key turned to "run" and maybe the headlights turned on. Check voltage at the path. This is actually a simple circuit.
Catalog
From that article is this simplified diagram of the main power distribution:
Go to MyMopar and download yourself a factory service manual which is FREE. That manual and some others over there, by the way, came from the guys on HERE. Also get into the "wiring diagrams" section there and download the aftermarket 2-page diagrams, which are not as detailed, and leave out some options but can be easier to follow. We can help you wade through this.
YOU MAY HAVE the age old problem with the bulkhead connector, fuse link, ammeter circuit. READ this article and even if you don't perform this bypass or in the manner the article lays out, it at least details a good overview of "how' and "why" of this problem
The main power to the lights and fuse panel "hot" buss as well as main power to the key switch comes of the "welded splice" which is in the large BLACK ammeter wire a few inches from the ammeter, and wrapped up in the under-dash harness
You may have a couple of possibilities........One is that you may be checking voltage WHILE THERE IS NO load turned on, and getting a false reading. This means that "if that is so" the trouble could be anything in the path, Wire terminal bad leading to the fuse link, the link itself, the bulkhead connector, connections at the ammeter, the ammeter itself, or the welded splice could have failed which DOES happen. These points in red--follow along on the diagram posted--are really the main characters in problems with main power loss
Try rechecking your results with the key turned to "run" and maybe the headlights turned on. Check voltage at the path. This is actually a simple circuit.
Catalog
From that article is this simplified diagram of the main power distribution: