I put it into gear and it dies.
This thread is another great example of WHY I OFTEN MENTION "THE PATH." It equates to a hike in the woods, or established trails and roads. "THE PATH."
I usually start at the battery because that is a definitive 'point.' I do realize that current flows from neg to pos (electron flow) but "the path" is still a CIRCLE, so it does not matter which direction you go to describe it.
THE PATH.
Identify what is failing (in this case the ignition) and establish the path from battery to the problem and then troubleshoot the ENTIRE path.
WHAT IS the path "to the coil?" It is from the battery, through EVERY SINGLE CONNECTOR AND TERMINAL AND SWITCH to the coil PLUS (if that is what you have proved is losing power)
The one diagram which should be emblazoned in every Mopar owner's mind, is the simplified MAD diagram in their article: (because it is so bold and simple)
This gets you as far as "almost" to the ignition switch...........
WHAT is the rest of "the path?"
From the feed to the ignition switch goes to the switch CONNECTOR (there's a terminal in there) and so that terminal and the connection to the switch infeed is ONE MORE point that can cause a drop / poor connection
Through the switch (CONTACTS)---another drop point
Out the switch connector on the "run" wire (dark blue IGN1) ANOTHER drop point terminal
And to and through the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR (dark blue run wire)--another drop point
And out into the harness and to the ballast connector (ANOTHER drop point)
You must chase this back down the PATH and measure each point "you can get to" and if you can't find it, then "get to" the places you didn't check before.
OTHER THINGS IN THE PATH
What about the black ammeter wire / welded splice? WELDED!!! Well guess what, in my lifetime, and now some of them from the guys right here, I've been privy to about a dozen FAILED welded splices over the years. Poorly welded, corroded, burned open, who knows? They can FAIL
AMMETER. The ammeter itself develops problems and the WIRE TERMINALS on the black and red ammeter wires can fail. Right there is about FOUR fail points
BULKHEAD CONNECTOR....Here you have a "bouquet" of failure. Not only can the AMMETER circuit terminals fail, because of heavy load, age, corrosion, oxidation, heat damage, but.......
Any other circuit in there with "much of a load" can fail...........The red ammeter wire, the black charge wire, the dark blue "run" circuit, the high and low headlights circuit................................
If it helps, sit down, get out the FSM and draw the part of the circuit you are chasing, with all the terminals and switches noted. And then when you check them DO SO CAREFULLY
Once you find with a test lamp that you have a "fail," go back with a METER and get more specific, and more carefully MEASURE the actual voltage COMPARED TO THE BATTERY
CURRENT. Never forget that CURRENT FLOW (or lack of it) can send you down the rosy path of mis-information. CURRENT and a voltmeter can be a huge friend in troubleshooting.
EXAMPLE
You, here have a power fail to the ignition. "Let's say" you check and it seems OK, you have power, WTF!! DO you? WHAT IF YOU have checked this AND THE breaker points are OPEN?
With the points open, there is NO current flow through the coil. There is no LOAD on that circuit. You might measure what you think is normal voltage to the ballast, and yet "it won't run."
.............And then you happen to check with the points closed.........and the coil reads............ZERO. WHY? You "had" power, right? Wrong. The failure in the harness maybe worked "fine" without the added load of the coil drawing current. When the points closed, it LOADED the circuit and the bad terminal fizzled "open" and the voltage went .................."poof."
................This is no different, than, say, a bad battery post connection.........You turn on the headlights and they work GREAT!!! And then you try and start the car and...........clickety buzz de clicky de plzzzzzzzzsssssstttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt!!!! WHAT!? Headlights worked!!! WTF
The connection was just good enough to operate the lights but not the starter
Just a few random thoughts.
This thread is another great example of WHY I OFTEN MENTION "THE PATH." It equates to a hike in the woods, or established trails and roads. "THE PATH."
I usually start at the battery because that is a definitive 'point.' I do realize that current flows from neg to pos (electron flow) but "the path" is still a CIRCLE, so it does not matter which direction you go to describe it.
THE PATH.
Identify what is failing (in this case the ignition) and establish the path from battery to the problem and then troubleshoot the ENTIRE path.
WHAT IS the path "to the coil?" It is from the battery, through EVERY SINGLE CONNECTOR AND TERMINAL AND SWITCH to the coil PLUS (if that is what you have proved is losing power)
The one diagram which should be emblazoned in every Mopar owner's mind, is the simplified MAD diagram in their article: (because it is so bold and simple)
This gets you as far as "almost" to the ignition switch...........
WHAT is the rest of "the path?"
From the feed to the ignition switch goes to the switch CONNECTOR (there's a terminal in there) and so that terminal and the connection to the switch infeed is ONE MORE point that can cause a drop / poor connection
Through the switch (CONTACTS)---another drop point
Out the switch connector on the "run" wire (dark blue IGN1) ANOTHER drop point terminal
And to and through the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR (dark blue run wire)--another drop point
And out into the harness and to the ballast connector (ANOTHER drop point)
You must chase this back down the PATH and measure each point "you can get to" and if you can't find it, then "get to" the places you didn't check before.
OTHER THINGS IN THE PATH
What about the black ammeter wire / welded splice? WELDED!!! Well guess what, in my lifetime, and now some of them from the guys right here, I've been privy to about a dozen FAILED welded splices over the years. Poorly welded, corroded, burned open, who knows? They can FAIL
AMMETER. The ammeter itself develops problems and the WIRE TERMINALS on the black and red ammeter wires can fail. Right there is about FOUR fail points
BULKHEAD CONNECTOR....Here you have a "bouquet" of failure. Not only can the AMMETER circuit terminals fail, because of heavy load, age, corrosion, oxidation, heat damage, but.......
Any other circuit in there with "much of a load" can fail...........The red ammeter wire, the black charge wire, the dark blue "run" circuit, the high and low headlights circuit................................
If it helps, sit down, get out the FSM and draw the part of the circuit you are chasing, with all the terminals and switches noted. And then when you check them DO SO CAREFULLY
Once you find with a test lamp that you have a "fail," go back with a METER and get more specific, and more carefully MEASURE the actual voltage COMPARED TO THE BATTERY
CURRENT. Never forget that CURRENT FLOW (or lack of it) can send you down the rosy path of mis-information. CURRENT and a voltmeter can be a huge friend in troubleshooting.
EXAMPLE
You, here have a power fail to the ignition. "Let's say" you check and it seems OK, you have power, WTF!! DO you? WHAT IF YOU have checked this AND THE breaker points are OPEN?
With the points open, there is NO current flow through the coil. There is no LOAD on that circuit. You might measure what you think is normal voltage to the ballast, and yet "it won't run."
.............And then you happen to check with the points closed.........and the coil reads............ZERO. WHY? You "had" power, right? Wrong. The failure in the harness maybe worked "fine" without the added load of the coil drawing current. When the points closed, it LOADED the circuit and the bad terminal fizzled "open" and the voltage went .................."poof."
................This is no different, than, say, a bad battery post connection.........You turn on the headlights and they work GREAT!!! And then you try and start the car and...........clickety buzz de clicky de plzzzzzzzzsssssstttttttttttttttttttttttttttttt!!!! WHAT!? Headlights worked!!! WTF
The connection was just good enough to operate the lights but not the starter
Just a few random thoughts.