Cluster fun.

Dana67Dart said
Looks like you have some new and some old.

All function the same?

Did they work before removal?

The brass contacts of the bulb holder have to be in contact with the parts of the cir board that the blue arrows are pointing to.

View attachment 1715854260

Yeah new and old. I only replaced the ones that had broken plastic and wouldn't stay in place. None of the ones I replaced worked before I changed them out but now none of them work unless my brights are on.

4spdragtop said
Test the bulb/sockets while out of dash. I'm doing same thing right now.

Tested each one and they all tested okay.

67Dart273 said
--------" " "FIRST " " "--------- thing to do is to see if the "orange" dash lighting circuit is operating

THAT CIRCUIT is a bit of a trick

There are TWO sources of power to the light switch. One, from the ammeter circuit, supplies ONLY the head lights, nothing else

The second comes from the tail light circuit fuse, and supplies the tail, park, and dash light dimmer controlled lighting. That circuit goes to the dash light dimmer and through it, and OUT of the light switch on the TAN wire, which feeds TO the fuse panel TO the inst fuse, the fuse at one end of the panel---through that fuse and to all dimmer controlled dash lighting via ORANGE wiring.

So for that to work, the tail lights must be working, and turned on, the dash dimmer must be working, and turned "somewhat to the left" and the INST fuse must be good. Probe that fuse with the tail or head lights on, wiggle the dash dimmer and see if there is power on either fuse clip for that fuse

I'll test each piece of that puzzle first thing tomorrow, but real quick from reading your post it sounds like if the tail lights aren't working the dash lights won't work. Am I reading that wrong or will a dead tail light kill my dashboard lights?