73+ K-frame build (pics)

go-fish said
This 73+ k-frame is going in a 1969 Valiant.

Firm Feel gusset kit.
Seam welded.
Firm Feel roller idler arm kit.
LCA plates.
Bergman Autocraft Delrin bushings and pins.
QA1 strut rods.
Hellwig 5905 1-1/4" sway bar.

Not being used are my Hotchkis fast ratio pitman/idler arms ( [FOR SALE] - Fast Ratio Pitman/Idler Arm ) as they won't clear the TTi's without some surgery to one of the primaries. I am using K7075 Moog pitman. Also, I have some Proforged LBJ's, SPC (old style) UCA's, OEM spindles, Viper brake kit, & little button bump stops to put on, so stay tuned.

The QA1 torsion bar adjusters came with 4 thick washers but I couldn't figure out where they go. Anyone know?

The roller bearing idler arm takes a lot of work to do but not hard. The sway bar was a pain to install. The bars that the bushings mount to took a bit of grinding to fit on the k-frame properly and I am displeased with the bolts. It's only 1-1/4" and I couldn't find one that was 1-1/2". The 1.24" torsion bars and Hotchkis Fox shocks will make up for the .25" I think.

Coming at a later date will be a PST or Firm Feel 16:1 box to replace the core box I have on there now.

Oh, btw, I was really excited that when I went on Rock Auto and found 340 engine mounts. Beware, they're just 318 mounts. I just used some thick washers on the different mount.

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Huh. I run the Hellwig 55905 on my Duster, I don't recall the mounts taking much work to fit the K. I seem to remember I had to do a little fitting but that's pretty much every aftermarket part made. The 55905 is a 1-1/8" diameter bar, the 73+ Hotchkiss is 1-1/4" but since neither one tells you the actual rate or gives the tube thickness it doesn't necessarily mean they're substantially different. The 67-72 Hotchkiss front bar is 1.5", but, the lever arms are different lengths compared to the 73+ bars too so the rate may be the same/similar.

Either way I don't think you'll need more sway bar with 1.24" torsion bars. If anything, depending on your tires and usage you may need less wheel rate than what that will give you.

Oldmanmopar said
Take a pry bar and see if you can pry the lower control arms rearward on the pin at the bushing with the swivel strut rods you have. You may have to remove the stabilizer end link on 73 up 340 suspension. You don't have to on the 72 and earlier

And if you do this and your LCA's move more than they would with the factory strut rods and bushings, you need to adjust the strut rod length. Because when properly adjusted the LCA's will move around less with the Delrin LCA bushings and adjustable strut rods than they will with factory rubber bushings. That's literally why there are Delrin LCA bushings and adjustable strut rods on the market, to get rid of the slop created by the factory rubber bushings.

Oldmanmopar said
I would say the washers you received with the torsion bars may go behind the bar in front of the clip to prevent the bars from siding back and hold the arms on.

ROFLMAO. No, that's not what they're for :rofl:

Oldmanmopar said
Just my advise do what ever you want. I have just seen a car with a destroyed fender and valance due to improperly installed strut rods and/or LCA bushings.

Fixed it for you!

Remember, there are more than a few guys that run their Delrin LCA bushing and adjustable strut rod equipped cars on road and autoX courses at high speeds without any hint of this being a problem. Peter Bergman @BergmanAutoCraft had the Delrin bushings made specifically based on his experiences with driving his car on road courses. If the LCA moved and the tire ate the fender and valance it was either improper installation or a part failure (which may have still been improper installation). Because with proper installation of those parts the LCA will not move around like that.

go-fish said
Well, I’m a dummy. After some head scratching I remembered they’re AR Engineering camber spacers. Duh. I just had them in the same little box with the t-bar adjusters.

Mancini Racing Camber Spacer Kit

You shouldn't need those with the SPC UCA's unless you're planning some really crazy camber numbers. I have a set somewhere too, back from before I bought the SPC's. Never used them.