Cooler intake manifold

For a streeter; here are my opinions;
>The fuel only has to be just cool enough to Not percolate in the bowls. Any cooler is a waste of time, because getting fuel into the mixture is not a problem. Forget the cool-can. Instead, if you experience hot-fuel issues, run a return line to the tank and purge the hot fuel to it. Less cost/zero maintenance.
>Air density only gets to be a thing when racing, or with big power. Around town If you can spin the tires to 50 mph, you obviously already have enough power. And by 50 mph, the hot underhood air is being rammed out the bottom. Forget the cold air intake, until you fix your traction issues.
> at 350 hp or less, forget the carb spacers. You are not gonna see a difference on the street, until you fix your traction issues.
>If you are running headers, and, your cam has more overlap than about 40degrees, then you NEED to block the heat crossover to make sure the scavenge cycle works on those center cylinders. If you don't, you are giving up power beginning at about 3500 rpm.
> throttle-plate icing occurs over a very small temperature range and a very high humidity index. There are other ways to deal with it in a car that is not normally driven in those conditions.
> What your minimum coolant temperature is hardly matters, cuz as soon as you slam the pedal down. the temperature will begin to rise .......... and on the street, you cannot keep the pedal down for more than about 6 seconds, cuz you will be doing over 65 mph. As to your cooling system, it is far more important to control your MAXIMUM coolant temperature. This has NOTHING to do with your thermostat. This has everything to do with; 1) the ability of your system to get rid of heat. AND 2) the tune in the engine to Not make excessive heat in the first place.
These are my opinions