340 carburetor selection advice

I know there is a ton of information out there. I’ve gone over many many posts, checked out all kinds of info online, talked it over with other car guys and checked with carb manufacturers and so on. So here’s the deal. I’ll try to be as detailed as possible.
I have a 73 dart sport. I’ve had the car now for almost 3 years but I am just now in a position to do some serious work on the car. I bought it from a wanna be flipper who was in over his head. The car sat for 8 years before I got it. So the usual. Bad gas, rusted tank, screwed up fuel lines etc,etc.
Up until now what work I have done on it is just to get it started so I can move it on its own power. Tons of electrical issues. I literally have removed a bucket full of screwed up wiring under the hood. I can fire it up but it won’t start after I shut it off or it stalls until it cools down. So trying to set timing and adjust the carb have been a chore. “For an example the distributor was wired reverse polarity”. It started but the timing mark was under the water pump so far I couldn’t even see it. Bad grounds, alternator wired wrong. Got that straitened out. I still have a lot of electrical work to do.

So to the point. I need a carburetor. The 600 edelbrock that’s on it doesn’t make sense to me and is trashed. The old weiand intake is going too.
Specs; engine rebuilt by original owner to stock - 1973 340 block 9 to 1 compression, stock heads, so 1.88 intake valves, stock rockers, Headers, 2 1/2 exhaust I will be replacing the stock type mufflers with some flow masters I have. MSD 6al with MSD coil and Mopar performance distributor. I replaced the pickup and lightened up the mechanical advance with different springs. I have installed a fuel cell in trunk. I have 3/8 lines, carter electric fuel pump, 5/16 return line, pressure regulator and gauge to install. I have a couple old cool cans around I may add one just because I live in FL. It has a rebuilt by original owner 727, B&M shift kit and a B&M 3500 stall converter, I did find a B&M torque converter box in the trunk. I checked the rear it has 411 sure grip. Spin the wheel 1 revolution the driveshaft turns 4 times an a little. According to the original owner it has a Lunati bracket master cam - 480/480 - 292/ 292. I picked up a brand new edelbrock performer dual plane rpm intake, super deal couldn’t pass it up. I have a phenolic spacer for under the carb and will be blocking off the crossover when I install it. The car will be mostly street with occasional trips to the track. Need to be able to beat my wife's 98 trans am running 13.1 quarters.lol - so it’s not a race car.
so let’s start with cfm’s, I’m thinking this combo “other than the heads” is a good match for a 750 vacuume secondaries. I have had “other than Chrysler” cars with similar specs that a 650 worked great. My big block cars were 750’s. I’m thinking a 650 even with removing the choke and adding a stub stack getting me a few more cfm’s will possibly be sacrificing a lot of top end HP. The 750 will cost me on the bottom end but how much? So what do you all think? I don’t have a ton of money, parts are expensive and have a lot of work to do. Want to get the carb correct the first time using what I already have to work with. Your responses will be greatly appreciated!