Rob; I don't know how you extracted that from my post, but if you did, then others will too, so yeah I musta left something out, altho I don't know what it could be.
So then no, cooling the fuel has never entered my mind. I mean I have heard of guys doing it at the track; but in a DD or a street machine like mine, I thought it would
NEVER "be worth the effort."
In my thinking, there were easier ways of preventing percolation.. The AirGap was my first line of defense.
My engine runs exactly 205 to 207, at a particularly marked spot on the intake. It does have fresh air now, because it has always been the go-to thing to do. Because the coolant and inlet air temperatures are stable, I can tune it for that temperature, and performance varies only as to the temp of ambient, which in the hottest months here in Manitoba varies less than about 20* from daytime-hi to night-time low. But from morning to evening is half that. That is about a HALF a jetsize.
BTW for those that might want to know, modern gasoline is blended from about 20 different types of combustible fuels. Some have boiling points of over 400* and some as low as 90*.
Those 400 guys will not boil until inside the chamber.
Those 90* guys are trying to boil on the way to the chamber. It is these guys that initiate starting when your engine is at -30*F.
The in-betweeners are all vaporizing at different temps, so may be disassociating on the compression stroke, already.
If 10% of your fuel is going out the tailpipe because the particles survived the inferno in the chamber; that costs you power, economy, and cash. My wars against this are;
1) to run at 207* to keep the chambers hot, and
2) freshair to keep the air cool,
3) I run alloy heads at 11/1. for a couple of reasons;
....a) alloy heads are very good at sucking heat out of the chambers. So, at low-loads/low-rpms I don't have a problem with detonation and even at 11.3 Scr, I never had detonation problems.
....b) and my heads with 3-coats of Hugger-Orange paint on them, are slow to change temp, at WOT. I found that I could run full-timing as soon as 3400, without detonating on 87E10. 3400 in First gear is 25mph..... or would be if the tires were not spinnining. But in my combo, and could be in yours too, IDK, she hits 7000 right out the gate and just hangs there until 100 mph or more. NO! the CenterForce is Not slipping.
....3) I run a 2-stage timing curve; fast to 2800 then slower to all-in @3400
....4) com'on eh; WOT never lasts for more than 5 or maaaybe 6 seconds. By 7.9, including 2.2 or more seconds in the 60ft, from a standing start, my car is doing 93 mph, and may still be hazing the tires, they say. So
cooling the fuel might be a thing for racers, but to me, in my street-combo, it is not.
BTW;
at 6000 rpm your engine is turning 100 times per second. it is firing FOUR cylinders on every revolution. On my 367, each chamber is; swept plus total-chamber volume equals 830cc. Lets say the VE at 6000 is 80%, therefore she is inhaling 664 x4=2656cc of air per revolution. Times 60 seconds and converting to cfm; I get 563cfm..
ok/ok I get that 6000rpm is not gonna get you anywhere close to 100% VE, so then lets back up...
My 367 at 100% if it could ever get there, would be
830/ 16.387 x 4 x 6000/ 12^3 = 680 cfm..
The formula for carb selection is ;
(cid x rpm)/3450= cfm. Therefore; 367 x 6000 divide by 3450= 638cfm...
680 is within 3% of what the formula predicts.
I tried a big TQ on an excellerator, cuz I had them/ but didn't like it.
I tried a 600VS cuz I had it, on the AG, but didn't like it.
I tried a 750VS cuz I had it, on the AG, but didn't like it.
I tried a 750DP cuz I had it, on the AG, and finally liked something.
Happy HotRodding
