The Great Pumpkin - '71 Duster
Undercoat removal continues, seems to be going OK and does not feel completely out of control. It's obviously very tedious work. The most time-consuming aspect of the job is trying to get all the little spots removed.
I tried the wire wheel again but it really is less efficient than doing it by hand and makes a huge mess with all the dust. Today I learned that once most of the top layer of material is taken off, Scotch Brite appears to be the right tool to get the remainder of it off. It also scuffs the factory primed surface for the new primer so it's all win.
Went to the auto body supply store yesterday and got the materials to seal the underside, no spray bomb junk here. My friend loaned me his primer gun for the job, an HVLP type with a 1.7 tip. This material was not cheap but it's a one-time deal so better to do it right than to chintz out and have to re-do it.
While at the paint store I priced out a quart of single-stage Tor-red/Hemi orange body paint. The color won't be cheap either but single stage is less expensive than a base-clear type. Besides, it's for the engine bay, trunk, wheel wells and over spray on the underside so no need for anything fancy. Most likely won't match the faded original paint that's on the body so it is what it is.
As I've mentioned previously, the engine bay definitely needs a fresh coat of paint. This picture illustrates the kind of situation that exists throughout the boiler room, lot's of oxidization and discoloration. No time like the present to make it look nice again.
Started on the passenger size front wheel well. So far so good. I'm not going to remove all of the undercoating here so what's still left above the inner fender bend and behind the headlight bucket will remain. If the fenders come off at some point I'll tackle those areas then.
Next step is to get down into the area behind the shock where the control arm and brake hose mounts are and clean all that up but that's really all that's left here in front. No epoxy primer here, might get high-build primer to level out the low spots but mostly it will be scuff and shoot the color over the old. I don't want to spend a lot of time on this exercise so "good enough" will be good enough.
Fore.
Aft.
Back to it. More to come, stay tuned.
Undercoat removal continues, seems to be going OK and does not feel completely out of control. It's obviously very tedious work. The most time-consuming aspect of the job is trying to get all the little spots removed.
I tried the wire wheel again but it really is less efficient than doing it by hand and makes a huge mess with all the dust. Today I learned that once most of the top layer of material is taken off, Scotch Brite appears to be the right tool to get the remainder of it off. It also scuffs the factory primed surface for the new primer so it's all win.
Went to the auto body supply store yesterday and got the materials to seal the underside, no spray bomb junk here. My friend loaned me his primer gun for the job, an HVLP type with a 1.7 tip. This material was not cheap but it's a one-time deal so better to do it right than to chintz out and have to re-do it.
While at the paint store I priced out a quart of single-stage Tor-red/Hemi orange body paint. The color won't be cheap either but single stage is less expensive than a base-clear type. Besides, it's for the engine bay, trunk, wheel wells and over spray on the underside so no need for anything fancy. Most likely won't match the faded original paint that's on the body so it is what it is.
As I've mentioned previously, the engine bay definitely needs a fresh coat of paint. This picture illustrates the kind of situation that exists throughout the boiler room, lot's of oxidization and discoloration. No time like the present to make it look nice again.
Started on the passenger size front wheel well. So far so good. I'm not going to remove all of the undercoating here so what's still left above the inner fender bend and behind the headlight bucket will remain. If the fenders come off at some point I'll tackle those areas then.
Next step is to get down into the area behind the shock where the control arm and brake hose mounts are and clean all that up but that's really all that's left here in front. No epoxy primer here, might get high-build primer to level out the low spots but mostly it will be scuff and shoot the color over the old. I don't want to spend a lot of time on this exercise so "good enough" will be good enough.
Fore.
Aft.
Back to it. More to come, stay tuned.