Hemi swap oil pan questions
Alright guys.. swapping the pitman arm and idler DID help BUT from lock to lock on the steering box is two turns. I’m at 1-1/2 and the idler ball joint crashes into the pan.. I might just leave it seeing there only a half a turn left. I have the ability to weld cast aluminum though so that’s up in the air…minimal clearance maybe an inch deep pocket.
There is another issue.. the tie rods. They are super angry going in from the top. No other way to do it since the tapper of the center link.. so there IS a difference between lower ball joint/ steering arms from 72 on up. the arm must raise up and correct this issue. You COULD drill out the center link and use a rod end style from the bottom but it will mess up bumpsteer pretty bad the geometry is very pissed off leaving it under. NOTE I’m use if my own motor mounts I made them to TTI spec except for crank centerline height, mine is a bit lower. Measuring from top of k member to crank centerline I’m at 5-1/2. I think they call for 5-3/4.. I don’t think a 1/4 inch would help the matter though.
There is another issue.. the tie rods. They are super angry going in from the top. No other way to do it since the tapper of the center link.. so there IS a difference between lower ball joint/ steering arms from 72 on up. the arm must raise up and correct this issue. You COULD drill out the center link and use a rod end style from the bottom but it will mess up bumpsteer pretty bad the geometry is very pissed off leaving it under. NOTE I’m use if my own motor mounts I made them to TTI spec except for crank centerline height, mine is a bit lower. Measuring from top of k member to crank centerline I’m at 5-1/2. I think they call for 5-3/4.. I don’t think a 1/4 inch would help the matter though.