front disk brake conversion kit

If your 10" drum brakes can't skid the tires, something is wrong. You will have to push the pedal harder than with a booster. You could install an M.C. w/ smaller bore for an easier pedal (with more travel). A 1990's 2-bolt aluminum M.C. can be used with an adapter plate ($30 ebay, or buy set from Dr. Diff). Could also install a vac booster ($170 new ebay, GM type w/ Mopar standoff and pedal adapter). People here don't believe me, but tires stop the car, so if your brakes can stop the tires rotating that is the best any brakes can do. Brake until just before the tires skid for max braking. The problem with drum brakes is that they will overheat and fade from constant braking but if not road-racing or "riding the brakes" down long grades you shouldn't experience that.

If you go with disks, Scarebird's kits are easiest and cheapest. If you use the common 1973+ factory front disks, you will need new front wheels for the different bolt spacing and your spare won't fit both front and back unless you change the rear-end. Plan your battles wisely and consider the big picture of what changes you will make. Scarebird, Wilwood, and a few other kits let you keep your current spindles, balljoints, and wheels.